Index of Questions
1. Rookie Orientation and Check List - read before you proceed.
2. Engine Classifications
Quote from: dw230 on March 13, 2015, 07:08:57 AM
Chris,
Here is an idea - you research all the posts on this site and compile all the questions and catalog them for the FAQ U thread. Your car is small so there should not be much work to do.
DW
Alright, I've decided to accept the Mayor's challenge - not because my car is small, or that I have so much time on my hands, but because there seems to be a need.
So this will be the "toe in the water" thread for those who are thinking about building a
car for Bonneville, but want a bit more information.
I will not answer bike questions.This will pertain to SCTA-BNI events ONLY.
But I'm not going to research the posts, as Dan suggested. I'm going to use my power as a moderator to delete, edit, cut and paste in this thread, rearrange, and try to keep a current list of FAQs at the top of the link - with reader's input.
This will NOT BE an authoritative thread, NOR SHOULD IT BE VIEWED AS SUCH. ALWAYS CHECK THE RULE BOOK FIRST, AND CONTACT SCTA-BNI BEFORE YOU MOVE FORWARD.
And I reserve the right to say "I don't know, get a rulebook".
Do not expect immediate responses.
If I make a mistake, post it here, and I'll fix it, and then delete the post. Keep arguments to personal messages, rather than turning this into a free-for-all.
We'll keep it tidy.
NEWBIES! I am still one of you. Ask your questions here, but I will not seek answers to your questions until you've filled out your name and location in the "Introduce Yourself" thread.
If it's not a newbie question, you'll need to contact SCTA-BNI. And I will determine what a newbie question is.
I suspect I'll be wishing I hadn't done this . . .
Let's start with this . . . a link to the Rookie Orientation for Bonneville.
Before you ask any questions, I encourage you to read this front to back, but in particular, note page 16 - the Entry Inspection form . . .
http://nebula.wsimg.com/90652bedb053cbc41f0b3a80fadfaa0d?AccessKeyId=1B489604A3781742F233&disposition=0&alloworigin=1
The right side of the page is a laundry list of the things that the tech inspectors will be looking for with your car. I bring this up because I see so many newbies jumping into discussions thinking they can bolt a mail order rollcage into their Camaro and go racing.
Fire suit, approved helmet, fire suppression system(s), speed rated tires, Lexan windows, flywheel shield - You must make yourself aware of the fact that you are committing to spend thousands of dollars on things that will not make the car go faster. I have seen countless LSR projects started with the best intentions, only to have the builder quit part way through, and we never hear from them again.
I'm creating this thread because I don't want to see that happen to you.
If you look closely at the list, and take notice of the photos of the cars in the Rookie Orientation Manual, it is clear to see that the day of the Street Car that can run at Bonneville is in our rear view mirror. Note what's being asked and looked for. It's to be taken seriously.
If you can accept the fact that you will be committing your time and treasure, and indeed, a whole vehicle for one purpose, and one purpose only, then you are ready to proceed.
Attached is a list of engine classifications used by SCTA-BNI. We'll go into body classifications later, but this is a good starting point.
I think this is a brilliant idea and will be contributing by asking inane, bizarre and unintelligible newbie questions :-D
Quote from: Frankenhealey on March 18, 2015, 10:16:54 AM
I think this is a brilliant idea and will be contributing by asking inane, bizarre and unintelligible newbie questions :-D
Dude, you're building a turbine powered Sprite - I expect they'll need to be cleared through homeland security before they make it here. :-D
Just so everyone knows, I started on a spreadsheet of car classes - hope to have it up by the weekend, at which point I'll be deleting the conversational posts in order to maintain the Index I started on the introduction page.
I'll be referencing the rule book quite a bit in its alpha-numeric sequence, which will provide a logical approach to searching on this thread in a way that can be verified through the rule book. A lot of this will be done on downloadable spread sheets - but a word of caution - I AM NOT DEVELOPING A SUBSTITUTE FOR THE RULE BOOK. IT FALLS UPON YOU TO VERIFY THE RULES AND HOW THEY APPLY TO YOUR CAR.
As this develops, and germane questions come up, I'll be editing, cutting and pasting them into the appropriately numbered response.
As always - GARB!
(get a rule book) :wink:
Neil....You spotted that with no mention of a prop??? :roll:
Neil knew it was a Hello-copter! lol8
I was just hovering around the forum when I spotted it.
Me, too! I crewed a Huey in a galaxy far, far, away a loooong, loooong time ago! :-P
HEY!!!!....Friday is the day after tomorrow! :cheers:
Hello everyone. Still just learning all about the classifications and salflat lingo. I intend to run the 130 one day and possibly more.
Here's what I have.
1932 Pontiac Six (32 chevy basically) all completely stock. No body mods. Stock height, parallel leafs suspension, cross steering and disc brakes.
Running gear. 79 Pontiac V6 231cu, maybe 235 bored, th200r4 trans and 8.8 Ford rear 3.73.
My engine would put me in the E class but what class would the body put me in ?
Just geeking out right now and learning, hopefully next season I'll get to drive it to the salt and go from there.
I'll be getting a rule book soon.
Quote from: rockracer on August 20, 2024, 11:13:15 AM
Hello everyone. Still just learning all about the classifications and salflat lingo. I intend to run the 130 one day and possibly more.
Here's what I have.
1932 Pontiac Six (32 chevy basically) all completely stock. No body mods. Stock height, parallel leafs suspension, cross steering and disc brakes.
Running gear. 79 Pontiac V6 231cu, maybe 235 bored, th200r4 trans and 8.8 Ford rear 3.73.
My engine would put me in the E class but what class would the body put me in ?
Just geeking out right now and learning, hopefully next season I'll get to drive it to the salt and go from there.
I'll be getting a rule book soon.
I think stock body + engine swap + no fancy electronics = classic gas coupe if I'm correct
130 club is a class in itself. On the landracing.com homepage, click on USFRA; the complete rules are there.
I'm sure I'll be doing the 130, was just curious about what classes.
Had a old 2008 WOS pamplet and vintage, classic was a bit vague.
Quote from: rockracer on August 22, 2024, 06:36:20 PM
OK I have one last dumb question for USFRA rules. My car is going to need a roof insert (30's cars) and it's a 4-door so it's long. It has a metal frame around the hole to stiffen up the sheet metal and bracing running across it.
I have a Tahoe roof available to me but it's a sunroof. I don't want the SR over me but maybe over the backseat area. Is this legal ???
I was thinking of removing the glass and making it metal. Also make it manual with some sort of lock or bolt down inside when racing.
Oh while I'm here. What about the suicide rear door's ?
Would I need some sort of additional locking device.
Years ago I saw a 50's chevy car on whitewalls in the lanes. Kinda stuck with me since.
130 MPH Club Rules
General Requirements
All drivers must be members of USFRA, possess a current valid state drivers license, and sign a loss damage waiver to participate.
A maximum of six (6) runs will be allowed per entry fee paid.
Each driver is a new entry. Each driver/rider change must report to tech inspection. Each separate driver must obtain a new vehicle number at registration, be a member of the USFRA and pay a separate entry and course prep fee.
The 130-mph format is specifically designed for currently licensed and insured, street legal cars/motorcycles. Requests for exemption from the Street Legal, Licensed & Insured requirement will require USFRA approval 45 days prior to the event.
To gain Membership into the 130-mph club, the vehicle must run the measured mile twice in the same event at a speed no less than 130 mph. The two runs are then averaged.
All rookie drivers will be required to attend rookie orientation meeting with a USFRA designated official prior to racing.
An acceptable speed indicator (Speedometer, Tachometer or GPS) is required so the driver has an indication of the car's speed at any point on the course.
Maximum speed will be 139.999 mph - any vehicle exceeding 139.999 mph will forfeit any of the unused 6 runs, will not receive a timing slip. To continue participating the vehicle must go through tech inspection again and purchase a new set of runs.
A Technical Inspection will be conducted by USFRA Official Inspectors to verify the acceptable condition of the engine, drive train, wheels, tires, fuel, steering, braking and safety systems to an approved checklist. Every entry requires a Technical Inspection.
Fees will not be charged for any inspection. No vehicle will be allowed to run if they do not fully comply with these Safety Rules. It is each ENTRANTS responsibility to fully understand and comply with these safety rules.
Decisions of the inspectors and officials are final in the areas of safety assessment and requirements.
Only gasoline, diesel, E85 fuels may be used – OEM natural gas, electric or hybrid vehicles are allowed.
No nitrous, alcohol, or nitro-fueled (this includes any other alternative fueled) vehicles will be allowed.
A ground cover must be used under the vehicle in the pit area, starting line, staging lanes, or any other area when modifications are made. Waste fluids will not be dumped, they will be taken off the salt for disposal. Pit areas and the salt in general will be kept neat and clean at all times.
Karts, Lawn Mowers, Dward Cars, Legends Cars, Rental Cars, ATVs, ATCs, Street Luges, Lawn Tractors and snowmobiles are not allowed to run in the 130 MPH Club.
USFRA/SCTA Competition Licenses will not be issued for 130 MPH Club Class runs.
Car Safety Requirements
The driver must wear a Snell 2010, ECE 22.05, or FIA 8860-2004 (or later) approved, full-face helmet with full face shield (no damaged helmets will be allowed), long sleeve cotton shirt or jacket, long cotton pants and closed shoes (no sandals). No polyester fabrics.
Open cars must have a 4-point roll bar. Convertibles, Targa Tops, Removable Hardtops, and any aftermarket roof modifications, such as chopped tops are considered "open car". Roll bars must be above Drivers helmet. Factory T-tops must have OEM inserts in place when running. (As of Jan 2016 these cars will have roll bars of 1 5/8 " Dia. With minimum .120" wall thickness mild steel or 1 5/8" Dia. With minimum .095" wall thickness E4130 chromoly tubing, with 5" x 6" x ¼" thick attach plates and minimum of 4 3/8" grade 8 bolts).
Cars must be equipped with OEM lap and shoulder (minimum 3 point) belts. If vehicle was manufactured prior to 3 point belts a 3 ½" SFI 16.1 lap belt will be mandatory.
Cars must have a metal battery tie down. No plastic, wedge style, ratchet straps, or bungie cords, etc. will be allowed.
A Driveshaft retention loop is required in the front 25% of each section of drive shaft on front engine, rear wheel drive cars, where adequate retention and control of a broken driveline is not assured by body/frame design.
On non-OEM fuel delivery systems dual throttle return springs are required, on each throttle shaft.
All non-OEM fuel lines must be constructed of rubber, braided, or steel hard line. No aluminum/copper hard line or clear plastic hose will be allowed. No plastic or glass filters.
Fuel lines are not allowed in the driver's compartment.
On unibody cars such as Corvair, VW, Porsche, Etc. the fuel lines must be higher than the lowest part of the pan or the unibody structure. They must also be installed inside of a heavy metal tube or above a skid plate. The metal tube or skid plate must be positively attached (no steel metal screws will be allowed). This is to protect the fuel system from damage if a wheel/tire failure should occur.
Vehicles must have H or higher rated tires which are rated for speeds in excess of 139.999 mph. No tires wider than 10" will be allowed unless the tires are OEM to the vehicle. (Narrow tires provide better traction and vehicle control on the Salt).
Tires & wheels for all vehicles will have bolted in metal valve stems with metal valve caps with O rings.
Wheel covers will be positively attached or removed. No OEM or snap on style hubcaps are allowed.
Glass Headlights taped or removed.
Well it seems fairly clear... aftermarket roof mods require a roll bar...
If you don't see it in the rules, it isn't there... don't read anything into the rules
No.
. . . the "zoo" that keeps the guys going 2, 3 or 4 times the speeds you're interesting in.
The USFRA adopted the SCTA rules and regulations quite a while back. USFRA has opted to have additional classes of their own as well - ergo 130/150 Club, bar stools, 3-car "trains", etc.
Take your ride, be it liner or 50 cc bike, to either group's event. They're different but great.
Rock, the 130 and 150 Clubs are strictly USFRA, you cannot run a street car at any SCTA/BNI event unless it meets the safety rules for the class it would be in. The USFRA clubs have their own set of rules.... The USFRA also hosts the 36 HP challenge for VW's.
They are a good group to race with :cheers:
I was just notifying the board of a spam post. Which has been deleted. Thank you.
I try to keep an eye open for those and nuke 'em ASAP.
Has anybody told this Rock guy that there are NO classes for the 130/150 club events. Strictly speed based. read the USFRA rules.