ballast

BALS aSALT · May 22, 2011, 02:52:10 PM

has anyone ever thought of cement in the quarter panels for ballast? you know............seal off the cowling area and fill with cement and then fill rear quarter panels till level with trunk floor? thoughts anyone?

also, what are some good ways to mount lead in say what used to be the back seat?

Dynoroom · May 22, 2011, 03:02:03 PM

Hell, the whole trunk floor of a corvair was fill with cement.
Not a lot of new ideas out there, but keep in mind safety, as in containment of said cement.....

dw230 · May 22, 2011, 03:13:12 PM

I am sure I won't be the only person to advise you that ballast mounted low and between the axles will give you the best results.

DW

Glen · May 22, 2011, 03:25:30 PM

I remember a car at Elmo that had concrete blocks in the back seat that got loose when the car flipped. The driver was lucky that time.

BALS aSALT · May 22, 2011, 04:18:37 PM

well, it was a though. how about a good way to mount lead? i was thinking a steel box welded in the backseat area, a bolt, very large bolt through the floor and box and then a lid for said box. also have it re-enforced by tying into cage? no? then on top of said weight box, i plan on mounting two water tanks. now here is a n other one of my thoughts. what if i used two aluminum fuel tanks?

bvillercr · May 22, 2011, 05:17:55 PM

Check out page 3&6 on our build diary. It shows our support for our water tanks on page 3 and shows our water tanks in the car on page 6. Also below our batteries is a built box that we have lead in.

BALS aSALT · May 22, 2011, 07:03:02 PM

so bvillercr, how big is your engine water tank? is ithe engine water pump electric of belt? and do you think a alum. fuel cell could work as a water tank?

bvillercr · May 22, 2011, 08:33:48 PM

Quote from: BALS aSALT on May 22, 2011, 07:03:02 PM
so bvillercr, how big is your engine water tank? is ithe engine water pump electric of belt? and do you think a alum. fuel cell could work as a water tank?

Our engine water tank is aluminum and it's about 30 gallons. We use an electric water pump to circulate the water. Above the engine tank we have an intercooler tank that is about 45 gallons, lots of weight on the rear end.

BALS aSALT · May 23, 2011, 06:23:32 AM

ok thanks,

wilcox garage · May 23, 2011, 06:51:31 AM

We put over a thousand lbs in my Roadster , the nice thing about bolt in ballast is being able to remove it for transport , working on and storing. As far as your cooling system I would look into a submerged radiator to be able to keep your system pressurized .

hotrod · May 23, 2011, 08:47:43 AM

Quotewell, it was a though. how about a good way to mount lead? i was thinking a steel box welded in the backseat area, a bolt, very large bolt through the floor and box and then a lid for said box. also have it re-enforced by tying into cage? no? then on top of said weight box, i plan on mounting two water tanks. now here is a n other one of my thoughts. what if i used two aluminum fuel tanks?

It all depends on how much ballast you want to be able to attach, how likely it will need to be changed (add or subtract weight during the event) etc.

First you need to figure out a ball park number regarding how much weight you want to be able to attach.

Weight of lead per unit volume -- 0.4092 lb/cubic inch. 2.44 cu. in. of cast lead weighs1 lb.

One method is to get some large size square tubing, cap the end of the tubing and fill with cast lead then cap off the open end. Drill a couple cross bolt holes through the tubing or weld mounting tabs to the square tubing and bolt in place. A piece of 2x2 square tubing filled with lead would weigh around 1.2 -1.5 lbs per inch of length depending on wall thickness of the steel tubing

I personally would mount the ballast with more than one bolt, so you don't have a single point of failure if one bolt comes loose or pulls free in a crash.
With properly fabricated square tubing segments you could have removable bars that are manageable by one or two people and lots of options for mounting them.

I would definitely have some sort of containment structure for the bars and a VERY stout box if you decide to go that route. Think about the shock load on the box if you undergo a 5G crash impact, and brace and gusset accordingly.

You really don't want there to be any chance at all that the ballast would break loose in a crash, and end up bouncing around inside the cars drivers compartment.
I would mount them as low as possible near the center of the car on the outside frame structure, so if they come free in a crash they leave the car to dissipate energy.

Larry

Leadfoot · May 23, 2011, 11:28:37 AM

Bals a Friend of mine with a A\CGC mounted ballasts in his frame connectors in his Camaro . I don't know if you have a similar set up but it seemed to work good for him.

BALS aSALT · May 23, 2011, 05:08:59 PM

Quote from: wilcox garage on May 23, 2011, 06:51:31 AM
We put over a thousand lbs in my Roadster , the nice thing about bolt in ballast is being able to remove it for transport , working on and storing. As far as your cooling system I would look into a submerged radiator to be able to keep your system pressurized .

point taken, will look into a system to pressurize.

BALS aSALT · May 23, 2011, 05:09:37 PM

Quote from: hotrod on May 23, 2011, 08:47:43 AM
Quotewell, it was a though. how about a good way to mount lead? i was thinking a steel box welded in the backseat area, a bolt, very large bolt through the floor and box and then a lid for said box. also have it re-enforced by tying into cage? no? then on top of said weight box, i plan on mounting two water tanks. now here is a n other one of my thoughts. what if i used two aluminum fuel tanks?

It all depends on how much ballast you want to be able to attach, how likely it will need to be changed (add or subtract weight during the event) etc.

First you need to figure out a ball park number regarding how much weight you want to be able to attach.

Weight of lead per unit volume -- 0.4092 lb/cubic inch. 2.44 cu. in. of cast lead weighs1 lb.

One method is to get some large size square tubing, cap the end of the tubing and fill with cast lead then cap off the open end. Drill a couple cross bolt holes through the tubing or weld mounting tabs to the square tubing and bolt in place. A piece of 2x2 square tubing filled with lead would weigh around 1.2 -1.5 lbs per inch of length depending on wall thickness of the steel tubing

I personally would mount the ballast with more than one bolt, so you don't have a single point of failure if one bolt comes loose or pulls free in a crash.
With properly fabricated square tubing segments you could have removable bars that are manageable by one or two people and lots of options for mounting them.

I would definitely have some sort of containment structure for the bars and a VERY stout box if you decide to go that route. Think about the shock load on the box if you undergo a 5G crash impact, and brace and gusset accordingly.

You really don't want there to be any chance at all that the ballast would break loose in a crash, and end up bouncing around inside the cars drivers compartment.
I would mount them as low as possible near the center of the car on the outside frame structure, so if they come free in a crash they leave the car to dissipate energy.

Larry

great idea. ilike it

BALS aSALT · May 23, 2011, 05:10:29 PM

Quote from: Leadfoot on May 23, 2011, 11:28:37 AM
Bals a Friend of mine with a A\CGC mounted ballasts in his frame connectors in his Camaro . I don't know if you have a similar set up but it seemed to work good for him.

another good idea, this great, keep em coming.

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