getting salt out of electrical components...

[WOODY@DDLLC]

From the salt mines of Australia: http://go-inox-green.com/

[Vinsky]

I've used ultrasonic cleaners on just about everything from electronics to gears. With the correct solution, I'm sure it would clean salt out of almost anything.

[JamesJ]

If you are looking in the US for 12/34, it is called 769,same product number,37341.

Is it the same, they have both the 12/34 and the 769 on the webpage? With different part number.

http://www.jetlubecanada.com/pages/1234.html
http://www.jetlubecanada.com/pages/769.html

[wobblywalrus]

The corrosion gremlins strike at the most inconvenient times.  Everything seems OK and a person thinks all salt corrosion problems are solved, and then things go wrong.  Often this happens during a meet when it is difficult to diagnose the problems.  It is a good idea to take an extra set of electrical and ignition parts with you to the salt.   I take the stock parts I removed when I upgraded to racing components, including an extra wiring harness.  This make troubleshooting easy.  Simply substitute parts until the problem goes away.

[Dean Los Angeles]

Explain how you are going to remove the salt from this?

[4-barrel Mike]

Dean, you obviously didn't use dielectric grease 

Mike

[entropy]

You guys are providing some very useful info.

Thanks a million!

Karl

[JamesJ]

On Graingers web site they do list it with the same part number.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/JETLUBE-LubricantPenetrant-5CHT9?Pid=search

[jww36]

JamesJ;
I'm a land speed racer, and have a metal fabrication shop. I am also the high performance distributor for Armite Lubricants, the maker of 12/34. As I mentioned in an earlier blog, Jetlube Canada is the Canadian distributor for Armite Lubricants and 12/34. The lubricant mentioned in the Grainger catalogue is not 12/34 and is a 12 OZ can. 12/34 is a 14 OZ. can, and if anyone is interested, I will be more then happy to be price competitive with the other stuff. While I don't expect all land speed racers to be loyal and helpful to one another, although I try to be, I would think land speed racers would be loyal to this website. As I mentioned earlier, any sales of 12/34 through Landracing.com will result in my donating a portion of  sales to this website. Will Grainger do the same?
John

[Seldom Seen Slim]

John -

Thanks for your reply and the explanation of your relationship to the 12/34 product.  I'll say this again to all -- you, of course, and the many folks that keep an eye on landracing.com and The Forum to attempt to prevent commercials from interfering with our important stuff -- racing.

I don't object to your comments about selling the 12/34 since you aren't blatantly advertising, since you offer a "competitive" price, and because you offer to send a portion of any sales generated through this forum to landracing.com.  Yes, you're kind of on the edge of what's okay and what's not - such that if you wanted to seriously hawk your wares I'd ask you to pay some $$ and in return get some dedicated advertising.

But -- you ain't, so I won't.  Thanks for your support and help about this stuff.

[jww36]

Jon;
I'm still trying to get my financial feet back under me after my first Speedweek. If I can just get a few Land Speed Racers to see how great this product is, I will be more than happy to advertise with you. Since I got into Land Speed Racing, and decided to build my own roadster, I can't tell you how much this site has helped me, and I have met some great people.
John

[JamesJ]

An earlier post said that the 12/34 and the 769 were the same, I did not think so but some places list the same part number, If I cant get the 12/34 here in town I may see about getting some from you to try out, I currently use Gibbs but this seems to be a bit different.  Another good product to have.  Thanks,

[jimmy six]

The best advice noone here takes is not to go to Bonneville.......Well I tried.................See you all in a week if your going...JD

[entropy]

well it seems that jww36 and his rec on Armite 12/34 is on the money.

After getting my evil handling Busa back from WOS, i pulled it down to a motor roller to take to Mackie in LA for frame alignment checking.
(turned out the swingarm was 3/8" bent to left)

Hosed the motor roller thoroughly with water, then sprayed it liberally with 12/34.

Then LIBERALLY sprayed all the wiring & electrical components with 12/34 paying particular attention to connectors & sleeves.

2.5 mo later no trace of corrosion whatsoever, none.  

Shoulda sprayed my tools & the fittings in my trailer...

Karl

[Koncretekid]

Can I get a barrel of it?  I'm thinking:
     1.)  Rinse bike (or car) thoroughly with water, preferably at Miller Raceway where they have a "firehose" size wash station.
     2.)  Remove tires and seat.
     3.)  Immerse entire vehicle in 1234
     4.)  Blow dry

Seems like that should do it.

Tom