Motorcycle Rear Tire Alignment

[Roland6250]

[saltwheels262]

my thinking-

#2- to the right

I would go for number 1. the wheels need to be aligned.
are the axle ends equal distance to the ground ( in a horizontal plane ) ?
you could bush ( shim ) the axle.

[wobblywalrus]

Saltwheels is right.  The bike will want to fall to the right if the rear wheel is cocked like in 2.

[donpearsall]

I agree. #2 is correct. The fact that the rear wheel is steering left while the front wheel is aligned straight means the rider will counter steer right. The bike will lean right and therefore turn right.

But THEN at high speed reverse steering kicks in where turning the wheel right makes the bke lean left and turn left...

Don

[Peter Jack]

#3 might be an interesting set up for a speedway bike. Other than that I wouldn't want anything to do with the handling on any bike set up like that.

Pete

[El Wayno]

Would think it wouldn't actually turn either way. It would move out to one side and the rider would steer to counteract it. then it would crab along at that angle.

[gearheadeh]

Would think it wouldn't actually turn either way. It would move out to one side and the rider would steer to counteract it. then it would crab along at that angle.

What he said.....

[Stainless1]

I would suggest you would want them both aligned straight, but not necessarily directly in line  I think some offset (.040 - .060) is beneficial for high speed stability, read that somewhere, YMMV.   Consult your chassis experts for the best high speed stability set up.

[SPARKY]

What worked best for us---I spent enough time alinging the rear axle untill the chain did not rub against the sprockets top or bottom when we free spun the wheel---it to a good bit of time to get it "tweaked" straight with no rub

[donpearsall]

I have a tool that clamps to the sprocket and allows you to sight a rod down the length of the chain. This ensures the sprocket and chain are aligned and there will be no rubbing. In theory this will also align the rear wheel with the frame.

Other tools such as the one made by Tiger Racing align the rear axle so that it is perpendicular with the frame.

And of course no one should rely on the axle alignment markings stamped on the swingarm.

Don

[PatMc]

Would think it wouldn't actually turn either way. It would move out to one side and the rider would steer to counteract it. then it would crab along at that angle.

This ^.  No bike has perfect alignment from the factory.  They go down the road with the frame slightly crooked.

Now, if you forget to tighten your rear axle, when you launch, it will go "straight" as far as you can tell. But it is crooked. The chain pulls the axle towards it.  However, when you chop the throttle, it goes into a violent shake, knocks your feet off the pegs, causes your BVD's to get wet, and your knees will actually dent a steel tank on an H1 Kaw.  

[RidgeRunner]

     Don't overlook the rear swing arm pivot points.  Very slight free play there can cause rear steer - almost a wallowing/weave action - when you hit a bump while leaned over.

                   Ed

[Dean Los Angeles]

Don't overlook the rear swing arm pivot points.

That was the point of mentioning the H1 Kawasaki, or 1968 500 cc H1 Mach III. Kawy triple.
You have lived a sheltered protected life if you haven't wrapped your balls around one. Not one of the redesigned later ones. The were still horrid, but better.

My first trip up a twisty canyon led me to find out you could throw it into the first sharp left, but couldn't force it up and over for the sharp right that followed.
Speed wobbles aplenty. REALLY glad there was no traffic. Came up on the pipe and produced power instantly. Oh yeah, you has better be up on the bars if you wanted the front end to come back down.

The rear frame twisted like a mad whore. The swing arm bushings were made out of bubble gum.
Fun toy.

[Freud]

Those 500 Kaws hurt a lot of people.

Power was like switching a lightening bolt on.

Instant frame reaction that didn't quit until it was on the ground.

Then they made a 750.........

FREUD

[rgn]

#1 straight 
#2 left
#3 right

I've been wrong before. 

I use two pieces of 25 x25mm Aluminium hollow section with through bolts that clamp the two pieces to the rear wheel.  They extend up past the front wheel, where you can then determine if the front and rear are in alignment.  I consider it fairly important.