Solo to Sidecar by STD

[Koncretekid]

Bruin,
The building of my shroud starts on about reply #271 on http://www.landracing.com/forum/index.php/topic,9341.270.html
It has worked very well and I have never seen the temperature gauge exceed 350*F.
Tom

[Bruin]

My original screen could easily hold salt, it was probably 50-50 pinholes and mass. A cockroach could not get by it.

I run a little mud flap off the back of the front fender, between it and a center down tube, the cooling fins don't catch a lot of salt. I'm thinking that with the advanced position of the fairing and intake,(maybe 6" in front of the cylinder) it will miss most of the spray arc. Raising the intake and or splitting it to the sides would help it miss the spray as well. Thanks for bringing up the salt spray issue, I wasn't thinking about it till now.

Tom, thanks for the link to the shroud discussion.

[Peter Jack]

I'm thinking that if you're deflecting the salt away from the cylinders the air carrying the salt is probably going around the cylinders too unless you're using something to separate the salt from the air.

Pete

[Bruin]

Pete, I'm not so concerned about salt vapor or dust at Bonneville. But keeping the large wet clods thrown up by the front tire out of the cooling fins and hardening to concrete certainly helps cooling.

[Nortonist 592]

Looking at the photo on the other page I was thinking if you could shield the engine and run a couple of small scoops above the shield to duct air to the engine?

[Bruin]

I think I'll end up fairing the engine, then eyeball it to determine where the inlet might catch the best flow. Right now I'm thinking of aligning it with the "passage" between the fork tubes. Maybe even extend it like a short snorkel/scoop towards that passage to catch the least disturbed air, and avoid salt spittle from the front tire. I also like the idea of providing an exit for the engine heated air before it reaches the carb. I'm sure these ideas will evolve as they are implemented.

[tauruck]

Do we have to call you Bruin?. No disrespect.
It's evolving even though it's a sketch. Something like that will work. It even looks good. Way to go!.

[Bruin]

Since I moved the gas tank to the bottom rail in needs a fuel pump. Common sense and BUB rules call for a shut-off on the handlebars. The kill switch is the traditional red switch and the Lo-Hi beam controls the pump. I color coded 'em for simplicity.

[Bruin]

Since moving the tank onto the bottom rail I needed a fuel pump and that requires a return line. It's close to the cap so I could reach in and get a nut behind it. Snugged it in place with some JB weld for sealer. Next, run the hoses and fire-sleeve 'em.

[Nortonist 592]

Check the BUB rules.  I don't know them but the SCTA rules only require the "unvalved portions" of fuel line to be fire sleeved.

[tauruck]

Since moving the tank onto the bottom rail I needed a fuel pump and that requires a return line. It's close to the cap so I could reach in and get a nut behind it. Snugged it in place with some JB weld for sealer. Next, run the hoses and fire-sleeve 'em.

You lucky man. I used to build my carbon gas tanks and work through the filler to join the halves and that was when the larger aircraft type caps were popular. 8-)

[Bruin]

BUB rules say... "fire sleeves shall cover all fuel lines and connectors." I'm guessing that means to the carb and back. Makes sense.

[Nortonist 592]

Didn't know that.  I hope the SCTA don't see that or its another expense I don't need.

[Bruin]

Norton, that SCTA isn't all-fire-wrap-all-the-time surprises me. They strike me as pretty conservative in the rules dept. I've been burned (non-cycle incident) so I'm an easy sell on this particular rule. Though I think it would be an interesting debate over how effective the fire sleeves are. I'm thinking about using some copper tubing in certain sections of the fuel line.

[Glen]

Copper lines are prone to cracking.