750cc pushrod bike build

[1212FBGS]

is that a 5/16 or 3/8 randy?..... 3/8 has a way higher shear than 5/16.....  just a thought...
kent

[Rchop]

That's a 5/16 grade 8 Kent.

[saltwheels262]

Thanks for the comments guys. If I remember right, the tip over valve was from Summitt. Look under external tip over valve.

found on pg. 50 of current cat.

franey

[Rchop]

Thanks for the comments guys. If I remember right, the tip over valve was from Summitt. Look under external tip over valve.

found on pg. 50 of current cat.

franey

The valve shown on pg 50 is for a fuel cell. If that's what you're looking for...OK. If you're looking for an external mounted one like mine, it's different.

[saltwheels262]

it is a lot bigger on the ends than i'd like.(6an , 8an) .
my breather is w/ 1/8 pipe. lot of reducers.

steer stop is nice. does the way pictured give
30* total swing? 15 each direction?

franey

[Rchop]

My breather bung is 1/8 npt also. the 1/8th to 6 AN adapter screws into the bung, so there aren't a bunch of other adapters. I haven't put a protractor on the steering stop yet, so I will let you know when I do.

[saltwheels262]

thanks,

franey

[Rchop]

The final mock-up is complete and now it's time to finish the build.

The wheels have been powdercoated, with new bearings, seals and tires installed...

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp108.JPG

I have a growing amount of fabricated, renewed, and repainted parts...

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp109.JPG

The frame is almost complete as final welding is done and gussets are added...

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp107.JPG

[Rchop]

Sometimes life and commitments outside the shop get in the way of a build. This has been the case since September and I have finally completed all the outside list. I finally got back to the build and finished off the frame construction. It has been primed and hung in the large shop for painting. We have been blessed with fantastic weather lately, so the painting should go quickly.


http://www.frsengineering.com/pp111.JPG

I also painted and baked the cylinders and heads with some high heat paint. I have been using Duplicolor high heat silver on my heads and cylinders for a long time now and it has proven itself when properly heat cured. Unfortunately, it looks so good, I'm going to have repaint the rest of the light colored parts of the engine...drat!


http://www.frsengineering.com/pp110.JPG

[Rchop]

The first fit for all the new engine parts..


http://www.frsengineering.com/pp115.JPG


http://www.frsengineering.com/pp116.JPG

[Rchop]

The new frame is ready for assembly...


http://www.frsengineering.com/pp112.JPG


http://www.frsengineering.com/pp113.JPG


http://www.frsengineering.com/pp114.JPG

[Seldom Seen Slim]

Randy, that silver paint makes it look like you "photoshopped" the heads and cylinders.  Great look -- and if it holds up the way you say it does -- you'll have Glen complaining about your bike being too shiny and hard to see!

Thanks for posting your build diary.  We appreciate seeing the project go together.

[Rchop]

Thanks Jon. I have been using that paint on heads and cylinders for many years of BMW restoration and custom builds. It has held up well for me. Now that I don't have to rush to make a race meet deadline, I can step back and pay attention to all the details. This bike will look good, I just hope it's faster than the last one 

[wolbrink471]

I also painted and baked the cylinders and heads with some high heat paint. I have been using Duplicolor high heat silver on my heads and cylinders for a long time now and it has proven itself when properly heat cured. Unfortunately, it looks so good, I'm going to have repaint the rest of the light colored parts of the engine...drat!

Looks Great!

I was wondering about the specifics of how you heat cure the paint......or are the directions on the can? 

Thanks,

Mark

[Rchop]

The directions are on the can. I have used used the oven before, but the wife doesn't let me do that anymore :-P. I set up an old bar-b-que with firebrick in place of the grill and use that now. The 500 degree engine enamel I used on the engine block doesn't need to be heat cured, but the 1200 degree paint I use on the heads and cylinders, is heat cured and has never burned or colored on me. The can says: For maximum hard, high heat resistance, cure at 300 deg. for 2 hours, or 400 deg for 1.5 hours, or 600 deg for 1 hour. Finish will be resistant to temps up to 1200 degrees F. as well as most solvents, salts and humidity.