(http://www.poweredstreetluge.com/images/Rear-Wheel-Alignment.jpg)
my thinking-
#2- to the right
I would go for number 1. the wheels need to be aligned.
are the axle ends equal distance to the ground ( in a horizontal plane ) ?
you could bush ( shim ) the axle.
Saltwheels is right. The bike will want to fall to the right if the rear wheel is cocked like in 2.
I agree. #2 is correct. The fact that the rear wheel is steering left while the front wheel is aligned straight means the rider will counter steer right. The bike will lean right and therefore turn right.
But THEN at high speed reverse steering kicks in where turning the wheel right makes the bke lean left and turn left...
Don
#3 might be an interesting set up for a speedway bike. Other than that I wouldn't want anything to do with the handling on any bike set up like that.
Pete
Would think it wouldn't actually turn either way. It would move out to one side and the rider would steer to counteract it. then it would crab along at that angle.
Quote from: El Wayno on August 21, 2012, 09:23:28 PM
Would think it wouldn't actually turn either way. It would move out to one side and the rider would steer to counteract it. then it would crab along at that angle.
What he said..... :cheers:
I would suggest you would want them both aligned straight, but not necessarily directly in line :-o I think some offset (.040 - .060) is beneficial for high speed stability, read that somewhere, YMMV. Consult your chassis experts for the best high speed stability set up.
What worked best for us---I spent enough time alinging the rear axle untill the chain did not rub against the sprockets top or bottom when we free spun the wheel---it to a good bit of time to get it "tweaked" straight with no rub
I have a tool that clamps to the sprocket and allows you to sight a rod down the length of the chain. This ensures the sprocket and chain are aligned and there will be no rubbing. In theory this will also align the rear wheel with the frame.
Other tools such as the one made by Tiger Racing align the rear axle so that it is perpendicular with the frame.
And of course no one should rely on the axle alignment markings stamped on the swingarm.
Don
Quote from: El Wayno on August 21, 2012, 09:23:28 PM
Would think it wouldn't actually turn either way. It would move out to one side and the rider would steer to counteract it. then it would crab along at that angle.
This ^. No bike has perfect alignment from the factory. They go down the road with the frame slightly crooked.
Now, if you forget to tighten your rear axle, when you launch, it will go "straight" as far as you can tell. But it is crooked. The chain pulls the axle towards it. However, when you chop the throttle, it goes into a violent shake, knocks your feet off the pegs, causes your BVD's to get wet, and your knees will actually dent a steel tank on an H1 Kaw. :-D
Don't overlook the rear swing arm pivot points. Very slight free play there can cause rear steer - almost a wallowing/weave action - when you hit a bump while leaned over.
Ed
QuoteDon't overlook the rear swing arm pivot points.
That was the point of mentioning the H1 Kawasaki, or 1968 500 cc H1 Mach III. Kawy triple.
You have lived a sheltered protected life if you haven't wrapped your balls around one. Not one of the redesigned later ones. The were still horrid, but better.
My first trip up a twisty canyon led me to find out you could throw it into the first sharp left, but couldn't force it up and over for the sharp right that followed.
Speed wobbles aplenty. REALLY glad there was no traffic. Came up on the pipe and produced power instantly. Oh yeah, you has better be up on the bars if you wanted the front end to come back down.
The rear frame twisted like a mad whore. The swing arm bushings were made out of bubble gum.
Fun toy.
Those 500 Kaws hurt a lot of people.
Power was like switching a lightening bolt on.
Instant frame reaction that didn't quit until it was on the ground.
Then they made a 750.........
FREUD
#1 straight
#2 left
#3 right
I've been wrong before.
I use two pieces of 25 x25mm Aluminium hollow section with through bolts that clamp the two pieces to the rear wheel. They extend up past the front wheel, where you can then determine if the front and rear are in alignment. I consider it fairly important.
After accurately aligning the wheels you can make some measurements and a page like this. I refer to it every time I adjust my chain. It saves having to get out the string to align the wheels the hard way.
Quote from: Freud on August 22, 2012, 02:27:35 PM
Those 500 Kaws hurt a lot of people.
Power was like switching a lightening bolt on.
Instant frame reaction that didn't quit until it was on the ground.
Then they made a 750.........
FREUD
The early Mach III was out of control :-o. IIRC ... It had an ineffective steering dampener that was a knob on the top of the triple tree. It had a front drum, a distributor, fairly tight steering rake. It used bizarre "surface fire" sparkplugs, NGK BUHX? It was the lightest though. I think the H1D was the fastest. Disc brake up front (pretty effeminate though), electronic ignition, side mount steering dampener that worked (there was a mount on the other side if you wanted to run 2), and longer rake (40 deg?). Put velocity stacks on the Mikunis, cut 2mm of the bottom skirt on the carb side, fill gaps in crankcase with JB Weld, put some Bill Wirges pipes on it, port the exhaust, and tighten up the squish band, and it was a Z1 (KZ900) killer, and CB750's were like deer caught in the headlights.
Sadly, many H1's died because people thought the could run off premix. The main bearings were force-fed from the injector pump. They would run for awhile on premix, then destroy the crank. The crank cost like $500 back then. So they ended up in junkyards.
I loved those bikes. Memories are always sweeter than reality.
Pat, you forgot to mention the inherent 'H' series vibration .... Even when stationary it appears :cheers:
(http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x347/pandoras_bits/th_9ccb5100.jpg) (http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x347/pandoras_bits/9ccb5100.jpg)
Quote from: wobblywalrus on August 23, 2012, 06:46:52 PM
After accurately aligning the wheels you can make some measurements and a page like this. I refer to it every time I adjust my chain. It saves having to get out the string to align the wheels the hard way.
I always make the sprocket side of the wheel about .050" further back .
your chain is on the right side of the bike?
initially, when setting up the rear axle adjustment , I use a 3 foot long, .375" round rod.
I want to have it lay across both sprockets evenly. if there is a gap then the rear sprocket is adjusted. this is done without the chain being on.
Quote from: rgn on August 23, 2012, 09:15:03 PM
Pat, you forgot to mention the inherent 'H' series vibration .... Even when stationary it appears :cheers:
(http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x347/pandoras_bits/th_9ccb5100.jpg) (http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x347/pandoras_bits/9ccb5100.jpg)
:evil:
Nice... She makes that bike look a lot bigger than it was.
I forgot about the whole "hands behind you" passenger bar. First time I gave male friend a ride, he used that bar to hold on. Very shortly he decided that he'd rather be thought a fairy by grabbing me around the waist, than be road kill. That was the only bike I ever gave my mother a ride on. She broke down in Santa Ana (not the nice area) and I came to rescue her.
Look closely under the bottom rear of the clutch basket. The shift shaft went all the way through the cases for wrong foot nations. Factory pattern was N 1 2 3 4 5, all up. It was linked so you could easily go 5 4 3 2 1 N all down.
Bill Wirges had 3 of the 750's in his streamliner.
They were savage on your ears with stingers.
FREUD
Quote from: Freud on August 24, 2012, 05:11:41 PM
Bill Wirges had 3 of the 750's in his streamliner.
They were savage on your ears with stingers.
FREUD
I would have loved to see/hear that. :cheers: