Wheel alignment

[John Burk]

Always assumed that toe-in was so that the wheels would point straight ahead after the effects of rolling resistance . Now I've seen that toe-in makes cars track better and that toe-out makes for better cornering . Have seen that toe-out on trailers and cars being towed makes them behave better . Saw that front wheel drive cars need zero toe-in .

Does toe-in make cars easier to drive on the salt or does the added rolling resistance slow them down ?

[SPARKY]

I don't know    but I put very little in mine

[Stan Back]

But you do put a little.

[hotschue]

JB...Everything you said is correct....depending on what you want to do and type of race car....in my case...0 toe, 0 camber, 13 degrees caster, I want to go in a straight line.  Normally 13 degrees would make it difficult to steer but hopefully we don't do to much of that.  Another factor to take in consideration is "scrub radius" which if you get that down to 0" the steering is quite neutral...does away with the flip flop effect of the 13 degrees.  btw I use a steering rack with heim ends to take out all of the slack in the steering.

Udo

[SPARKY]

about 1/16"   
5 degs caster
Speedways gasser frt. axle has camber  I am going to take it out and go back with 2 degs. on caster
I do not want the strg. inputs weight jacking the car.

[Sumner]

Always assumed that toe-in was so that the wheels would point straight ahead after the effects of rolling resistance ....

..... and any play there is in the components and there has to be some.  That is what I've always heard also.  So you are ideally trying to end up with the wheels/tires as straight as possible, but since that might be a hard line to approach I think they generally try to error on the side of a little toe-in vs. toe-out.  Again just what I've always heard,

Sum

[RidgeRunner]

Always assumed that toe-in was so that the wheels would point straight ahead after the effects of rolling resistance ....

..... and any play there is in the components and there has to be some.  That is what I've always heard also.  So you are ideally trying to end up with the wheels/tires as straight as possible, but since that might be a hard line to approach I think they generally try to error on the side of a little toe-in vs. toe-out.  Again just what I've always heard,

Sum

     What I had always heard as well. 

     Owner of a local general repair garage had a "scuff board" measuring device that he ran cars over at a just rolling speed to check the toe [went for as close to 0 on the in side as he could get].   Said he preferred using it because he felt it took into account any small play in the system and better recorded what was happening when the vehicle was underway.

      FWIW he also liked to set the RF camber about a 1/4 degree more positive to allow for the crown in the road ['course that wouldn't apply to a Bonneville set up].

                              Ed

[Dynoroom]

about 1/16"   
5 degs caster
Speedways gasser frt. axle has camber  I am going to take it out and go back with 2 degs. on caster
I do not want the strg. inputs weight jacking the car.

Sparky, next time you put your car on scales turn the steering left then right. Get back to me with how much weight jacking you get...