Belly Tank Build Diary

[Podunk]

Hydrogen Peroxide ? Would that put you in a fuel class?

[Mike Brown]

All of the mile/mile and a half events now require front brakes.  I did not want to bolt on some metric GM calipers and rotors that would be hanging out in the wind, the car already has poor aero and I did not want to make it worse.  I decided to fabricate some disc brakes that will fit inside the rims of the front tires.  I had already machined the vented rotors off of the hubs I am using.  I really like how the Wilwood rotors on the rear are driven by castellated dogs and held in place with a large snap ring.  I decided that I could do a similar design for the front keeping it compact.  I machined drive slots in my hubs.  There were diagonal gussets cast into the hub.  I machined the gussets down to the same depth as the slots (for 1/4" thick rotors).  They were drilled and tapped 1/4-20 for bolts to secure the rotors to the hubs. 

[Mike Brown]

I machined some 1/4" steel plate for rotors.  The tabs fit into the slots machined in the hubs. 

[Mike Brown]

The finished rotors and hubs.  I will use graded bolts with safety wire to secure the rotors to the hubs.  I have small SC series Wilwood calipers.  I will fabricate the caliper mounts next.  The plan is to put the front brakes on a hand brake. 

[manta22]

Mike;

Who made your aluminum tilt trailer and how do you like it?


Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

[Mike Brown]

Mike;

Who made your aluminum tilt trailer and how do you like it?


Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

Neil,

The trailer is Aluma brand.  Their website is alumaklm.com.  My trailer has a GVW of 5,800 5,200 pounds and is a single torsion axle.  The trailer tows great and is sufficiently strong for my belly tank car.  I had very specific goals of a single axle, light weight and tilting.  I don't think this trailer is specifically listed for hauling cars but it works great for me.  Normally you would drive vehicles on to the tilted trailer and when the CG is forward enough it lowers against a dampener cylinder.  Getting unloaded is the reverse.  Since it is impractical to drive my car on and off I added the manual winch and tilt cylinder.  I can hold the bed tilted for loading and unloading without the chance of it going back to the flat position.  I think that the trailer is well built with LED lights and other nice features.  I hope this helps.  

Mike Brown

[manta22]

Thanks, Mike. I've been considering buying an aluminum tilt trailer so your opinion of your trailer helps me quite a bit. Do you know your trailer model number?

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

[WhizzbangK.C.]

I think the Crosley won the 1951 Indianapolis demolition derby.

C'mon Joe, everyone knows that no Crosley has ever WON a demo derby. 

[Mike Brown]

Thanks, Mike. I've been considering buying an aluminum tilt trailer so your opinion of your trailer helps me quite a bit. Do you know your trailer model number?

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

Neil,

My trailer is a 8214HS.  The following is a link to the trailer on the Aluma website. 

http://www.alumaklm.com/utility/single-heavy-axle/8214hs-utility-trailer

Mike Brown

[manta22]

Thanks, Mike.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

[ronnieroadster]

All of the mile/mile and a half events now require front brakes.  I did not want to bolt on some metric GM calipers and rotors that would be hanging out in the wind, the car already has poor aero and I did not want to make it worse.  I decided to fabricate some disc brakes that will fit inside the rims of the front tires.  I had already machined the vented rotors off of the hubs I am using.  I really like how the Wilwood rotors on the rear are driven by castellated dogs and held in place with a large snap ring.  I decided that I could do a similar design for the front keeping it compact.  I machined drive slots in my hubs.  There were diagonal gussets cast into the hub.  I machined the gussets down to the same depth as the slots (for 1/4" thick rotors).  They were drilled and tapped 1/4-20 for bolts to secure the rotors to the hubs.  

  Mike where did you get your information from that all of the mile/ mile and a half events now require front brakes? ECTA had considered that chage for 2017 but decided to not go forward with it that was decided before not having a location to run on this year. Your saying its changed?

[Mike Brown]

All of the mile/mile and a half events now require front brakes.  I did not want to bolt on some metric GM calipers and rotors that would be hanging out in the wind, the car already has poor aero and I did not want to make it worse.  I decided to fabricate some disc brakes that will fit inside the rims of the front tires.  I had already machined the vented rotors off of the hubs I am using.  I really like how the Wilwood rotors on the rear are driven by castellated dogs and held in place with a large snap ring.  I decided that I could do a similar design for the front keeping it compact.  I machined drive slots in my hubs.  There were diagonal gussets cast into the hub.  I machined the gussets down to the same depth as the slots (for 1/4" thick rotors).  They were drilled and tapped 1/4-20 for bolts to secure the rotors to the hubs.  

Ron,

The 2016 ECTA rule book page 31 paragraph 3.W states 175 MPH and over - four-wheel brakes are required.  I was told when I went through tech in 2016 that because the rule books came out late for 2016 they were not going to enforce the rule until 2017. 

Mike Brown



  Mike where did you get your information from that all of the mile/ mile and a half events now require front brakes? ECTA had considered that chage for 2017 but decided to not go forward with it that was decided before not having a location to run on this year. Your saying its changed?

[Mike Brown]

The rotor will definitely fit inside the rim of the front tire.  With the brake line connection on the back of the caliper I think a small cutout will suffice for the caliper. 

[Mike Brown]

I machined caliper mounts from 3/4" thick aluminum plate. 

[Mike Brown]

I needed a 1-1/8" thick spacer from the spindle flange to where I was going to mount my inner wheel discs.  I machined the spacer from extruded aluminum tube.  I was able to purchase 6" OD 4" ID aluminum tube online from Speedy Metals.  They sell this tube by the fraction of the inch.  I was able to get blanks cut 1-1/4" tall.  This greatly reduced the material cost and machining time for these spacers.  The material was at the house two days after the order.  A good company to deal with.