Belly Tank Build Diary

[Skip Pipes]

Super work.

Really like the frame material. Keep a picture of the cut frame section in a binder with your logbook. That way if you're asked about material thickness where the cage is welded, you have a picture for reference.

SP

[kiwi belly tank]

Smooth LSR tires won't work on blacktop or concrete, they don't have enough rubber on them & won't take the heat.
  Sid.

[Elmo Rodge]

Mike, are you going "inside" or will your head be sticking out?  Wayno

[Mike Brown]

The cockpit is designed for a sit up position.  My head will be just high enough out of the body for safe forward vision.  I am running the dual mass dual disk LSA clutch.  (photo attached) The clutch release is from Tilton.  I have used these with great success. 

[Mike Brown]

I have certifications for all of the material that I am purchasing for the build.  I have attached a photo of the beginning of the roll cage (excuse the poor quality of the photo).  The cage components were purchased from SW Race Cars.  Woody stopped by this evening to offer his advice.  Woody is a wealth of knowledge. 

[Mike Brown]

Attached is a photo of the frame in process.  I find it much easier to TIG weld when the frame can be positioned so I don't have to stand on my head.  I use a small overhead hoist on a monorail in my shop.  The monorail has pivot on the wall side so I can swing it from side to side. 

[Jack Gifford]

I like the frame. It appears to use the [limited] space to best advantage.
A sprung front axle needn't be terrible aerodynamically. My lakester has cross-over linkage and coil-over shocks inside the body, leaving just the radius rods out "in the air". [The worst aero part of my front end are the good-sized disc brakes; I'm considering ditching them, then I could run inboard wheel discs.]

[Mike Brown]

I will not be running front brakes.  I machined the brake rotor portion off of the hubs to have less hanging out in the air stream. 

[tauruck]

Great job Mike.

[Mike Brown]

I ordered rims yesterday.  I plan to run Moon discs and wanted to weld tabs for Dzus fasteners to the rims as well as fully welding the centers.  These rims come standard with a powder coat finish.  I prefer to not weld powder coated steel.  Most powder coating shops can burn the powder coating off for a fee.  I contacted Cragar and they were able to supply their "69" series rims with a bare finish.  They also make this rim in a 4-1/2" width for Goodyear Land Speed Tires.  The rims cost less than $60/ea from Jegs. 

[Dr Goggles]

Its just me but I reckon salt and powder coating don't mix.

Use alkyd resin, it's repairable, adheres better and doesn't hide corrosion creep.

[SPARKY]

Rustoleum rattle can primer--- my frame paint of choice---- but then I have been accused of building UGLY CARS   

[Peter Jack]

I totally believe in rust paint as opposed to powdercoat. I use powdercoating in a lot of the projects I build where they'll never be reworked but race cars don't fall in that category. As a weldor I find two part paints and powdercoating to be much more difficult to repair and then the recoating is much more difficult and expensive and the repair/modification shows up more.

Pete

[Mike Brown]

I also like the Rust-O-Leum product line.  Their rusty metal primer has great adhesion.  I have also been accused of building "ugly" cars.  My daughter told me no more flat black projects so I have switched to semi-gloss!

[Mike Brown]

The roll cage is coming along.  I am pleased with the LSA engine package.  With supercharger and intercooler the entire package will fit in the body without the need for any alteration.