Tig welding.

[tauruck]

Guys, I'm starting to weld 3/8" plate and up.
My machine isn't state of the art but it's reliable.
I changed from the 1,6mm electrode to the 2,4mm
for the thicker material but now I'm getting arcing between the electrode
and cup. Not sure if I bought a bad batch or if my settings are junk but never had this
problem before?.

[Peter Jack]

Why are you tig welding material that's that thick? I'd be using a mig or if you want to use the same machine you're tig welding with, use E7018 electrodes and arc weld the material. At best I'd be using the tig to tack the pieces together. Don't get carried away and think that everything has to be tig welded because it's a race car. Use the process that's applicable to the job you're doing. In this case you'll likely run into internal stresses and extra distortion with the tig because of the number of passes you'll have to make compared to using another appropriate process.

Pete

[jauguston]

Are you using 2% Lathinated electrodes (The best choice)?  Are you mixing helium with your argon?

Jim

[Vinsky]

You actually have a metal cup? Tig cups are usually ceramic which are non conductive.

[Peter Jack]

Unless the cup is brand new it will have some metallic contamination. I had a job the other day where there was arcing between the electrode and the ceramic cup on a gas lense. The world is a strange place sometimes. I got the job done without ever really solving the issue and the issue hasn't returned with other jobs.

Pete

[Sumner]

.... had a job the other day where there was arcing between the electrode and the ceramic cup on a gas lens. The world is a strange place sometimes. .....

Yep, I was welding aluminum a couple weeks ago and the tungsten would keep burning back into the cup.  I broke it off 3 times and put a new point on it and it kept doing it.  Finally I threw it away and put a new one in and problem solved.  Not sure what was going on,

Sumner

[tauruck]

You actually have a metal cup? Tig cups are usually ceramic which are non conductive.

No the cup is ceramic. I'm going to get new electrodes first and see how that goes.

[tauruck]

Pete, I was thinking just that.
Use the Mig instead and you're right about me wanting to Tig everything because it's a race car.

I was worried that the Mig would create more distortion but as you know I'm self taught.

Guys thanks for all the advice. I really appreciate it.

[krusty]

For all of you tigging fabricators, check out my friend Mike Furick's line of pyrex cups at <dogfab.com>. His stuff is great for doing all those hard -to-weld projects.

vic

[tauruck]

Hey Krusty, you just ruined my life. I checked out Mike's site!!!!.

I wish I hadn't.

You get fishing lure addicts, drug addicts and then you get me.
Thanks man. That was an eye opener.

[krusty]

The boy can lay down a bead,eh? Michael is a superb fabricator who does pro stock m/c frames and a lot of custom headers and just about anything else to make a buck. He started his line of welding solutions to provide more affordable pyrex cups to his fellow fabricators. When I met him, he was fabricating pro stock (car) chassis at the former Cagnazzi Racing when Jeg Coughlin won the NHRA championship is 2007. Check out the welding porn on his Instagram @mfurick.

Keep up the good work on your liner.

vic