Bockscar 2.0

[Speed Limit 1000]

Stainless
I'm on your side.
You do know that "y'all" is singular. You need to say all y'all for it to be plural.

Ron

Stainless lived in Arkansas and LA long enough to know that. LA is Louisiana, as all y'all know

Johnboy

[kiwi belly tank]

The reason the wording in 3.B.1. is in bold print is that many people have not realized that the roll cage (1-5/8) includes below & behind the driver & arrived ready to go but failed tech. I know of a few cars that were hauled off to SLC to have tubing welded in under the seat. Cars that have been running for some time might slide through unnoticed but it's unlikely on a new build without pre-approval.
I'm not about to tell anybody how to do it, just point out what SCTA expects you to do.
 Sid.

[Mr. Schimstock]

I like the cage/roll bar design but have a question on what the plan is for the required gussets between the hoops and the top rail.  Maybe I missed something in the rule book.  Since the front hoop a distance inside the top rail I'm not sure how a flat plate gusset would work.  A tube style could be fit but would likely drive a change in the body profile.

[Stainless1]

Stainless
I'm on your side.
You do know that "y'all" is singular. You need to say all y'all for it to be plural.

Ron

Stainless lived in Arkansas and LA long enough to know that. LA is Louisiana, as all y'all know

Johnboy

Ya.. ya... ya... I lived in the FLA part of FL too.... All y'all that haven't lived in the panhandle may not realize that part of FL is often considered Friggin' Lower Alabama   

OK so proceeding with the cage building... Verticals welded it, diagonals fitted, and welded... still need to weld the hoop in... things are starting to get tight....
Gussets to the top rail.... The back hoop gets a full gusset to the top rail... it will also be know as the firewall... the front hoop gets a tube gusset to the top rail, it is not welded yet because the front hoop is not welded in yet... Luckily it can still be moved on the vertical to make room for welding around it.
Here's a couple of pics of the process

[Stainless1]

A little added info for those headed down this path.... I cut one ear off of the diagonal to put it in and then chamfered the cut and re-welded it... the cut needed to be tangent to the bottom of both cuts... and still needed a tap with the soft hammer to move in place.  The squaring magnet held the ear in position to be tacked. 

Hoop welding will probably happen today, although we are doing some work on Ross's bike, making new clip on's to get him a better hand position.

[Stainless1]

Welded all but about 3/4 inch of the hoop, going to the welding store this morning to see if they have a #3 long  nozzle to try to get into the tight area.... You know that corner that you paint yourself into... Couldn't see any other option... the little tube braces will also be a challenge.... at least for me...

[floydjer]

Handy little buggers here...

[Peter Jack]

Welded all but about 3/4 inch of the hoop, going to the welding store this morning to see if they have a #3 long  nozzle to try to get into the tight area.... You know that corner that you paint yourself into... Couldn't see any other option... the little tube braces will also be a challenge.... at least for me...

Stainless, the guys who build headers, and I include myself in that group the odd time use a really large gas lens and nozzle so you can use an absolutely ridiculous stick out on the tungsten. Don't forget to turn up the argon a bit. You'll likely have to go to a real welding supply store to find those items but once you have them you'll find regular uses for them.

Pete

[Stainless1]

Jerry, the parts are made... It is a little tight to finish welding them... thus the rub... The long 3 won't fit in the space between the tubes... so bad planning on my part... when I was mocking it up it looked like it was doable.
I will find a way  

PJ, When you say large, do you have a pic of what you are trying to explain to me...  I'm not a pro but I am always willing to learn and try.... I have a Weldcraft 20 water cooled torch on an old Aircrafter 330 tig.
If your're not busy this week I'd be happy to have you drop by to demo....    ya I know...  
 

edit... hopefully the local Miller store is a good welding supply, they did have long #3 in stock.

[manta22]

Handy little buggers here...

A stupid question... what are these things?

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

[Peter Jack]

Jerry, the parts are made... It is a little tight to finish welding them... thus the rub... The long 3 won't fit in the space between the tubes... so bad planning on my part... when I was mocking it up it looked like it was doable.
I will find a way  

PJ, When you say large, do you have a pic of what you are trying to explain to me...  I'm not a pro but I am always willing to learn and try.... I have a Weldcraft 20 water cooled torch on an old Aircrafter 330 tig.
If your're not busy this week I'd be happy to have you drop by to demo....    ya I know...  
 

edit... hopefully the local Miller store is a good welding supply, they did have long #3 in stock.

I'll go out to the shop a little later and get either pictures or part numbers.

Pete

[ronnieroadster]

 Kind of old school but wouldn't a stick welder solve the problem for just the hard to reach location?
   

[Peter Jack]

Jerry, the parts are made... It is a little tight to finish welding them... thus the rub... The long 3 won't fit in the space between the tubes... so bad planning on my part... when I was mocking it up it looked like it was doable.
I will find a way  

PJ, When you say large, do you have a pic of what you are trying to explain to me...  I'm not a pro but I am always willing to learn and try.... I have a Weldcraft 20 water cooled torch on an old Aircrafter 330 tig.
If your're not busy this week I'd be happy to have you drop by to demo....    ya I know...  
 

edit... hopefully the local Miller store is a good welding supply, they did have long #3 in stock.

Pete

It looks like Miller discontinued the good stuff when they took over Weldcraft. I found a similar setup from aliexpress. It should do the trick. There are pictures in the ad. Good luck!
I'll go out to the shop a little later and get either pictures or part numbers.


https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5pcs-Welding-Torch-Nozzle-Glass-Cup-Stubby-Collet-Gas-Lens-Insulator-Kit-Set-For-Tig-WP/32817381374.html?src=bing&albch=shopping&acnt=42005546&isdl=y&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&albcp=133757205&albag=5569327719&slnk=&trgt=pla-4585032208264301&plac=&crea=17152878670&netw=o&device=c&mtctp=e&utm_source=Bing&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=PA-Bing-Tools-CA&utm_content=All&utm_term=large%20gas%20lens%20and%20nozzle&msclkid=62b5b91cd1ea1be1cf92e366f095c225

[Peter Jack]

Ugly Ronnie!  :x :x

Pete

[Peter Jack]

The shipping looks stupidly long. I don't know if there's any way to get it speeded up. I know I've ordered stuff from China and had it in just over a week.

Unfortunately this is what happens when some large company takes over another and cuts out the specialty stuff in the name of efficiency.

I've always been a Miller and Weldcraft supporter but sometimes even the good guys can pi$$ a guy off.  :x :x :x

Pete