Front wheel alignment question

[Jack Gifford]

I've made no changes to the running gear of the lakester I bought from its builder/driver who is now deceased. I have not taken measurements, but it definitely has some negative camber and some toe-out. I wish I had questioned him about it. In 2008 he went 263 mph at Bonneville and had no handling issues. I'll welcome any comments about these front wheel settings.

[tallguy]

Each land speed vehicle is unique, and many details contribute to the handling of each
specific vehicle. 

I suggest caution, such as gradually increasing how fast the vehicle goes on any given
run.  And it could also be useful and important to note various "settings" used on a
run.  These could include driver weight,  amount of fuel carried, tire choice, pressure
in each tire, temperature of the ambient air, wind readings, elevation of the race track's surface, type of surface, and the like.

Please keep physical safety as a high priority.  Good luck to you.

[SPARKY]

What kind of front axle does it have?  what size tires does it have? what is the track width?

[SPDRACR]

Jack, On my G-F roadster we run negative camber, 16 degrees of caster and a heavy 1/16th of toe IN, Unless you are front wheel drive
I don't know why you would ever run toe out in a LSR car. My roadster is heavy. with a tube axle, but it does run 250 plus mph at Bonneville.
Eric Eyres #832

[SPARKY]

I run
2 degs of caster
slight neg camber
3/8" of postive scrub radius with special frt hubs and wheels

scrub radius and + caster will weight jack the car with steering input

early Ford axles seem to have neg camber and their hubs will usually have over 3" of scrub radius with LSR wheels and tires

[kiwi belly tank]

Just because it has negative camber & toe out & went X-mph doesn't mean it is right. You need to look at the whole picture & that includes scrub radius & Ackerman.
Negative camber & toe out is used to help a car to react to steering input into a turn but will be a little washy in a straight line & that will be more noticeable on a non solid surface.
Pick a speed you're comfortable with in the car & make some toe changes to see how it reacts to steering inputs. I sure don't see any reason to have negative camber in LSR.
  Sid 

[Jack Gifford]

Thanks for the comments.
I'm with Sid in not seeing a reason for negative camber.
I should have mentioned that I only run the car on pavement. What would be a reason for toe-out?
I've only run to the mile at Loring- went straight just fine. I only posted out of curiosity.

[Stainless1]

Jack, I'm late to the party due to thrashing to get the car ready to go to Bonneville... It's not being cooperative. 
The first thing you need to do is measure... The angles of the car may fool your eye... I know mine does.  If it has toe out I would correct the toe out to a 1/32 to 1/16 of toe in.  Not  sure I would attempt any correction of camber.  While you measure you need to look at caster just to know.  As mentioned caster and scrub can affect handling...
Get it on the track, we are all curious about your Frankenmotor... cool as the back of a pillow.... 

[kiwi belly tank]

What are you checking it with, do you have accurate alignment equipment? If the wheels are turned off center & the Ackerman angle is somewhat correct that will show toe out. Wheel eye-linement & a tape measure can show goofy numbers, especially with some camber & caster going on! cromag If it's made some runs, how does the tire wear look?
Stainless, I know your pain, my junk is not making nice either! :-P
  Sid.

[JAL AKA JL222]

 
  We run 1/8 toe in, .09 degree of rear thrust angle checked by alignment shop, and 22 deg of caster.

  Suspension parts supplied by Stock Car products. 22 degs is what they used on Grand National cars at that time on high-speed tracks.

Technician was surprised we got thrust alignment so close.

  Hears how we do it and having a 4/link suspension helps and Alston instructions. But not exactly 8-)

  Jack car up high enough to get under and put jack stands under rear end and frame at front.

Find center of frame front and back and center punch. Our chassis has crossmember at front of 4/link bars so we punch there. Plumb bob down to floor and make an X, front and back. Snap a line length of car then make a mark about 5 ft in front of rear end. Doesn't have to be 5' just forward a good amount.

  Plumb down from exact center of axels to floor make marks or use 2 plump bobs secured at center just enough to clear for tape measures and adjust bottom bars of 4/link and adjust to exact measurement from each side.
I always start at an inch for more exact measurement.

  Best for 2 people.

For bolted in rear ends. Still a good check, Hey I know of one very fast roadster with rear end mounted 5/8 out of parallel.

5/8 out was found at chassis shop as front end was wrecked after spin at El Mirage and exit into the Boonies.

                                 JL222