Moon disc fasteners

Started by Mile High Talon, March 12, 2007, 12:55:17 PM

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Mile High Talon

What thread/pitch/head machine screw fasteners do most use to attach their plain old non-Dzus Moon discs?

The hex-head self-thread machine screws received from Moon are so long they require an included plastic bushing/washer, and they don't have an aero profile or sleek finished look. Since they only sent 12, and I need at least 24, I'll use whatever is preferred by the inspectors, or used by most racers, or could go with S/S machine screws with a radiused-crown allen head.

Thanks,
James LaMere
Mile High Talon
Denver, CO
'95 Talon TSiAWD daily driver
www.milehightalon.net
WoS '06 148.36887mph @ 280,000mi.
Profile photo by 'Porkpie' Graf

Glen

In the past I used 10-32 machine screws with a button head. Add a little gorilla snot to the threads when you install them so they don't back out.
Glen
Glen
Crew on Turbinator II

South West, Utah

RichFox

I have also used 10-32 but now have the Dzuse button Moons. Get them. It's just not worth fooling with the little screws every time you want to check air pressure or wheel bearings. After a while, you will start putting it off.

Seldom Seen Slim

Ditto what Rich said.  I've got Moons on my pickup -- and the screw-on type wouldn't stay put.  They'd loosen just enough that I'd hear click-click, then in the mirror I'd see a disc pulling out to pass me.  I kept tightening them -- that didn't help enough, either.

The button-type I've got on the pickup now stayed quiet -- and stayed on -- all last summer without a whimper.  I can check air pressure easier, too -- just like he said.  Pretty soon it'll be warm up here, the salt on the roads and the snow in the driveways will be gone, and I can put the Moons back on the truck.  Of course there's one potential hassle -- when I had the winter tires put on the rims they bent the mounting tabs in a bit -- now I've gotta figure out how much to pull them out before I can make the buttons fit.  Life is rough in the Great White North. 

We went snowshoeing off our deck yesterday. I betcha not many of you can say that (yeah, I know, you don't want to be able to say that, either...).
Jon E. Wennerberg
a/k/a Seldom Seen Slim
Skandia, Michigan
(that's way up north)
2 Club member x2
Owner of landracing.com

JackD

To start, put the valve stems in the back of the wheel.
If you are going to run them only on the street, Ansen make SS disks that look the same but without the buttons or screws.
They go on like a regular full wheel cap and stay..
The reason for the little nylon washer or the Dzus fasteners is to give them a little movement so they don't come loose when the wheel flexes.
No matter what kind of a screw you use they will all come loose and the Yellow Snot (old school) or Liquid Teflon (trick new stuff) in a tube will take care of it. :wink:
"I would rather lose going fast enough to win than win going slow enough to lose."
"That horrible smell is dirty feet being held to the fire"

Dynoroom

Quote from: JackD on March 12, 2007, 01:46:50 PM
No matter what kind of a screw you use they will all come loose and the Yellow Snot (old school) or Liquid Teflon (trick new stuff) in a tube will take care of it. :wink:


Who says you can't teach an old dog new....    :-o
Michael LeFevers
Kugel and LeFevers Pontiac Firebird

Without Data You're Just Another Guy With An Opinion!

Racing is just a series of "Problem Solving" events that allow you to spend money & make noise...

Glen

One of the setups I made some small kidney shaped washers with two holes. They were 1" wide. So the disk had six mounting holes and took some of the bending away from a single screw.Never had one come loose, also used gorilla snot on the threads, it didn't allow the holes to wear as well.
Glen
Crew on Turbinator II

South West, Utah

jimmy six

You did not state what type of wheel you were going to attach them to. A 10-32 will give you the most threads in a steel wheel. I would use 10-24's in aluminum and I do. I purchase stainless steel Allen button head head screws from McMaster-Carr by the box. I also use flat washers. They are a little areo-dynamic.

I have never had a screw on a disc come loose either on steel or aluminum since 1975. I apply never-seize/silver goop to the aluminum ones.. Good Luck
First GMC 6 powered Fuel roadster over 200, with 2 red hats. Pit crew for Patrick Tone's Super Stock #49 Camaro

russ jensen

I use 10-32 SSflat heads- that way they are flush w/ disc
speed is expensive-how fast do you want to go?-to soon old & to late smart.

836dstr

McMaster-Carr is a GREAT supplier of all sorts of goodies, from fasteners to tools,etc.

Usually next day delivery. With the cost of gas these days it's more cost effective to order on-line and have UPS burn the fuel. M/C has a great selection and realistic minimum quantities for ordering.

Mile High Talon

These will only be used on the Salt on steel wheels. Thanks for all the responses! I purchased 10-32 S/S allens w/button heads today, a 10-32 tap, & #21 drill bit, and got one wheel done this afternoon.

James
Mile High Talon
'95 Talon TSiAWD daily driver
www.milehightalon.net
WoS '06 148.36887mph @ 280,000mi.
Profile photo by 'Porkpie' Graf

gearheadeh

Quote from: Seldom Seen Slim on March 12, 2007, 01:34:54 PM
Ditto what Rich said.  I've got Moons on my pickup -- and the screw-on type wouldn't stay put.  They'd loosen just enough that I'd hear click-click, then in the mirror I'd see a disc pulling out to pass me.  I kept tightening them -- that didn't help enough, either.

The button-type I've got on the pickup now stayed quiet -- and stayed on -- all last summer without a whimper.  I can check air pressure easier, too -- just like he said.  Pretty soon it'll be warm up here, the salt on the roads and the snow in the driveways will be gone, and I can put the Moons back on the truck.  Of course there's one potential hassle -- when I had the winter tires put on the rims they bent the mounting tabs in a bit -- now I've gotta figure out how much to pull them out before I can make the buttons fit.  Life is rough in the Great White North. 

We went snowshoeing off our deck yesterday. I betcha not many of you can say that (yeah, I know, you don't want to be able to say that, either...).



Some of the cars I have seen using "Dzus" or button fasteners only have 3 per wheel, Is there some allowance for these to use 3 instead of 6 per wheel? Is there someone that markets ready made tabs to weld onto my steel wheels? Thanks for your help in this.
40 is the old age of Youth, 50 is the young age of the Senior years.

interested bystander

Call Moon, they advertise evrywhere and are Landspeed racers and friendly!

Simple!

You worry too much.
5 mph in pit area (clothed)

Milwaukee Midget

"Problems are almost always a sign of progress."  Harold Bettes
Well, I guess we're making a LOT of progress . . .  :roll:

Dr Goggles

 I used my handy little home-made countersinking anvil that I made for our Al body, carefully measured out the spacing and then drilled once I'd dimpled the disc.....the difference in what I was doing Is that we fastened through the centre NOT to the rim.Our discs have a "nipple" in the centre and I drilled through the raised section of the centre(about 4" in) and welded some stainless nuts on the back, then used M8 stainless countersunk flat heads. didn't rattle loose, a little slow to get off .

Now , I'd post a pic but Jon's cuss-filter won't let my photobucket account link up to this site................
Few understand what I'm trying to do but they vastly outnumber those who understand why...................

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Current Australian E/GL record holder at 215.041mph

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