Tubing Notchers and Benders??

Started by isiahstites, July 04, 2008, 02:52:16 PM

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Peter Jack

#45
I'm going to try posting the pictures of the attachment on my Makita cut off saw.

Hey, it works!!! Scary.

Geo

Peter,

That's cool!  Does the one bolt hold it steady enough?  Or do you find you are holding the holder with one hand?

Can you post some photos of the bar holder off the saw.  Side and bottom shot please.

I use the cutoff saw to notch the tubing.  And I found set up is easy using a digital angle gauge.  Harbor Freight for $30.

http://www.virtualvillage.com/items/item.aspx?itemid=4670187&utm_source=baseusa&utm_medium=shopping&CAWELAID=190645045

Geo

Peter Jack

One more picture might help. Usually I either use it on the floor and use one or more blocks the same height as the table or put it on a bench and use adjustable height stands to support the tube. The single pivot bolt doesn't show any tendency to move but I usually have my left hand on the tube to the left of the clamp while I'm operating the saw with the right hand.

Pete

SPARKY

Duhh---I have used some similar device---to build my headers---but used hose clamps and a small angle iron to hold exhaust tubing for a but weld---

Guys please post these in the HOW TO SECTION---in the future can we post there then make a reference to you post---these are things that can help us all----thanks
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Cajun Kid

PJ  what brand and size cut off saw is that ? (I am spent out on the shop build, but maybe my wife can get me at least a nice 8" vari speed grinder and cutoff saw for Christmas )

Charles
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Ron Gibson

Out of my range but check out beaumontmetalworks.com belt sander for tubing notching. Don't know much about it but seemed very versatile . This was brought up on the Metalmeet site a while back.

Ron Gibson, Omaha NE
Life is an abrasive. Whether you get ground away or polished to a shine depends on what you are made of.

Stainless1

I would think one of the HF oscillating spindle sanders
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=95088
might make a good tool for dressing to fit.... Wait till it goes on sale to buy....  :wink:
Stainless
Red Hat 228.039, 2001, 65ci, Bockscar Lakester #1000 with a little N2O

Peter Jack

That's a 14" Makita cut off saw Charles. Tube fitting is about all I ever do with it because I'm lucky enough to have an 11" liquid cooled cold cut saw to do most of my fabricating.

Pete

754

Good tips
, if you are handy and have a lathe, try this..

Rig up a V block & clamp on your toolpost, bottom of V should be on Centerline.

Mount your holesaw, flycutter, rotaBroach, etc in the chuck or better with taper adaptor to spindle.

Clamp tube in v block, adjust angle & clamp toolpost.. use handwheel of carriage to feed tube into cutter..


I bet you never go back to the drill to notch after that..

Glen

Glen
Crew on Turbinator II

South West, Utah

Peter Jack

Sorry to contradict you Glen but it's actually www.lowbucktools.com . I know because I've made the same mistake before. Dave's really good to deal with and his stuff works.

Pete

Glen

It's ok Pete, New computer and Vista learning curve.Thanks for the correction.
Glen
Crew on Turbinator II

South West, Utah

Peter Jack

Glen:

Have you tried your new Vista computer on chat yet? Neither of mine will work. I spend Tuesday evenings on the MAC.

Pete

Dr Goggles

Quote from: doug odom on November 24, 2008, 01:23:42 PM
After I chop saw the tubing if I have a weird or hard to fit angle I will wrap a piece of paper around and tape it together to make a tube. Then slide the paper out over the end and start cutting with scissors till I get the fit just right. That gives you the pattern you need. Slip it over the tube you are going to fit and mark the pattern on the tube. Grind off to the pattern marks and it should fit the same as the paper did.

Thats a neat and simple idea whichever way you end up doing your mitres. We used a cut off saw,a flap disc for dressing  the cuts, rounding the points and taking that tiny bit out the inside before a little tap with a heavy hammer to get the fishmouth right.There is a little intuition , a lot of T&E and a few rejects.........always remember though that If you leave the shortest pieces to last then you're bound to have a bunch of pieces that are half done already(too short for what you made them for)on one end. :roll: :roll:

What I did learn though was that if you imagine the cuts are at 90 degrees to one another and their dividing line is perpendicular to the pipe you are joining to it's easier..........once you've set the angle of the clamp in the cut off saw you only need to rotate the pipe through 180 degrees to make the second cut.

That didn't sound as simple as I thought....................
Few understand what I'm trying to do but they vastly outnumber those who understand why...................

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Glen

Pete, trying to down load the plug ins right now.I.ll get it figured out
Glen
Crew on Turbinator II

South West, Utah