turbo motor build

[interested bystander]

Hotnuts, didn't you see the "don't try this at home" instruction?

[Jonny Hotnuts]

show us the cut!

Kent, you could handle it.....
Some others....not so sure of....
Better left unseen.

Funny thing is that after my wife and I ate a nice dinner I went in to get it sewed up. They gave me a local and from then allowed me to do most of my own work including cleaning it out, prepping and doing the last 2 stitches (of 3). I was surprised in how they would allow me to take such an active roll in my own treatment. The doctor also told me to remove my own stitches when it healed to avoid coming back in.

I guess if you talk like you know what you are doing they will let you deliver.

The worst part of the whole process was waiting, filling out papers, waiting getting worked on and waiting some more.

other than that....fun stuff and a good experience.

[Glen]

Kent, he went to a VET. 

[Stainless1]

JNuts, are you sure you want to reduce the spray under the pistons, does the guy that recommended it run WOT for 5 miles?  Or is he maybe a drag racer...  :| and he gets more HP for 7.48 seconds..... 

[SPARKY]

  I have piston sprayers on my BBC and I run NA...

[Dynoroom]

And I have never used oil squirter's on my Bonneville engines.
I have used them when the stroke is real short and the rod is very long on other applications........

[Jonny Hotnuts]

JNuts, are you sure you want to reduce the spray under the pistons, does the guy that recommended it run WOT for 5 miles?  Or is he maybe a drag racer...   and he gets more HP for 7.48 seconds..... 

Guys running 100% blocked squinters for 8K miles on hard driven street motors.
Know a few that ran @ Maxton with 0 from the jets with no probs.

I was recommended to use .030 for a LSR motor....running .040

Dont want to make the sources of my info on these mods public...but I can assure everyone that he knows waaaaay more than I do regarding high HP busa builds (although thats not saying allot!). For whatever reason the people that do these mods professionally have been real tight lipped about what they do and why. I wouldn't be surprised if there were some peeps out there that f-ing hate that I let the bat out of the cag.

WIll see in August if the motor smokes!

~JH

[Dynoroom]

I know what you mean JH. Racers are a funny lot. I can tell someone exactilly what Compression, cam, boost etc. I run and they don't believe me. So no need to lie.......

[saltfever]

And I have never used oil squirter's on my Bonneville engines. I have used them when the stroke is real short and the rod is very long on other applications........

Interesting!  Mike, what is it about that combination that suggests using squirters?

[SPARKY]

my guess is that the wrist pins stay WAY up there away from the oil.  I run squirters because I am trying to get all of the heat I can from the piston crowns---like diesel trucks that I know about.

[Jonny Hotnuts]

Along this journey of my first busa engine build I have discovered there are some things you can get away with.....other things... not so much.

Case in point is that my China made micrometers only would read to .001. Truth be known they came from Harbor poop sales and are not too bad all things considered. Unfortunately these don't really do me any good considering the bearing and journal tolerances are to .0001. I was making guess estimates based on the end wheel being "part way" through the .001ths.

I sent the crank to Marine Crank today to be balanced, polished and nitrated. I dont think that the tolerances would change due to this operation but didnt know if it was common to send another good crank back to me pre done with this common machine work, that may not of been the exact crank I sent in (unlikely but ya never know).


I got this mic today to do the measurements on the journals when the crank comes back before I order bearings.

If you are reading this considering doing a build that requires new bearings just be ready to get a mic that reads at least .0001. This one reads to .00005 and is somewhat spendy but at least there will be no guessing on bearing tolerances and hopefully will be the last one I need for a while.




~JH

[manta22]

JH;

If a measuring tool says "Mitutoyo", "Brown & Sharp", or "Starrett", you can depend on its accuracy.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

[John Noonan]

JH,

If you sent a crank to Dave at Marine you will receive the same one when the work is completed.

John

[saltfever]

Snip... If you are reading this considering doing a build that requires new bearings just be ready to get a mic that reads at least .0001. This one reads to .00005 and is somewhat spendy but at least there will be no guessing on bearing tolerances and hopefully will be the last one I need for a while.

Jonny, ordinarily I wouldn't split hairs but you have invested in a quality mic and are focused on precision.  Your mic has 1 micron (.001mm) resolution. A micron is .00003937" and that would be .00004" with rounding error. Don't want you to loose oil pressure! 

[Rex Schimmer]

jnuts,
Your new micrometer is a fine piece of equipment and certainly from one of the very best manufactures but when you start measuring things in .00005 inch increments you had better start looking at temperature control also. Say you are measuring something that is 2 inches and you want its exactly 2.000000 inches. Well if you measure at one temperature and then measure it again at a temperature 10 degrees higher it will be .000126 inch larger now! did your micrometers expand also and what is the real dimension??? Some times when you start measuring to RCH's you have to really think if the extra zeros really mean anything. BTW the thermal coefficient of thermal expansion for steel is 6.33 x 10 to the negative 6 power (.00000633) inches/inch/deg F.

Can you order bearings for your Busa to a dimension that is closer than .0005? and if you can what is the tolerance? Always good to be accurate a waste of time to be more accurate than you need to be. And one other thing don't forget to have them calibrated every few months, probably will need to find a very good tool and die shop with some half tenth Jo blocks,  other wise you will just have an accurate C clamp.

Rex