A class bike build advice

Started by MTABike, September 15, 2010, 02:26:01 PM

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sockjohn

Quote from: MTABike on September 15, 2010, 02:26:01 PM

Seems like most people who are starting with a modern sportbike and even a lot who aren't are running stock style wheels (17" mags)
My initial thoughts are to run a narrow front wire wheel and as big and narrow of a solid rear rim as I can find tires for.   From the reading I've done it seems like maybe the ease of finding speed rated tires is choosing a lot of peoples wheels and tires for them.  Is this correct? With an inline 4 tearing a wide hole in the air is my front tire even really going to make much of a difference?


I have looked for real data on the drag differences between a spoked wheel and a solid wheel, and haven't really found sufficient data yet.  There is lots of data on bicycle wheels, but nearly all of the solid wheels are designed for low aero drag, as opposed to designed for looks like many motorcycle wheels.

I suspect that wider and solid is far better than narrow and spoked, and actually have wondered if in APS that a wider front tire would be advantageous overall.  I would stick to the sport bike wheels.


grumm441

Quote from: bak189 on January 27, 2011, 07:09:00 AM
Lars, those leathers certainly fit you a lot better then they did me.....especially now, I just got to loose weight...oh, sure

A pity Lars didn't have them handy when I saw him
G
Chief Motorcycle Steward Dry Lakes Racers Australia Inc
Spirit of Sunshine Bellytank Lakester
https://www.dlra.org.au/rulebook.htm

Briz

Scott; the headstock bearings on modern sportsbikes - the plastic caged ballraces - always share sizes with off-the-shelf taper rollers.
Just measure the head spindle & order taper rollers to fit. Then turn the headstock to suit the taper rollers.

Stainless1

None at 208....
John N, any problems at 250?
Joe, issues at 270?

Timkins are good if you have them tight and don't let em rust.
Stainless
Red Hat 228.039, 2001, 65ci, Bockscar Lakester #1000 with a little N2O

kiwi

Also consider that the wider the front tyre and forks are, the wider you can make your front fender. That may be beneficial for an unfaired bike.

sockjohn

Quote from: kiwi on February 04, 2011, 12:43:08 AM
Also consider that the wider the front tyre and forks are, the wider you can make your front fender. That may be beneficial for an unfaired bike.

This is along the lines of what I was thinking, but figured in APS where the speeds were higher the difference might be more significant.  I wonder what the legality of running a rear tire on the front would be, and how a bike would handle with a 300mm front tire?

(apologies for dragging the wide tire argument to bikes now!)

kiwi

Here is a pic of my A class bike. It might give you some ideas.
It is my first attempt at a bike for Bonneville and it seemed to go ok.
Went reasonably fast without that much power.

saltwheels262

bub '07 - 140.293 a/pg   120" crate street mill  
bub '10 - 158.100  sweetooth gear
lta  7/11 -163.389  7/17/11; 3 run avg.-162.450
ohio -    - 185.076 w/#684      
lta 8/14  - 169.xxx. w/sw2           
'16 -- 0 runs ; 0 events

" it's not as easy as it looks. "
                            - franey  8/2007

wobblywalrus

Do you plan to put partial streamlining on in the future?  If so, the greater strength in the triple clamp area provided by upside down forks can be a real bonus.