Post your "Things I have to change to conform to the new rules" list here

[bvillercr]

John, check with Tap Plastics. I think they're a lot cheaper.
http://www.tapplastics.com/

Brian, they don't have molded windows.  We could order flat sheets and cut to fit if they pieces long enough.  Front and sides only.

[thundersalt]

Troy, check this out
http://www.eharwood.com/catalog/product.php?productID=131

[Bob Drury]

  Just a question, has anyone tried forming the lexan over a stock glass curved window?   I assume using body shop heat lamps and clamps would be the way to go.  Do you cut it with a jig saw and a fine blade?  Tap plastics probably could give us the answers, or maybee if you made a paper template, it might be worthwhile to pay them to cut it.  They did my tail light lenses, and the cuts were really smooth, but I never thought to ask them what they used.
 They also sell drill bits for plastic, and I got a how-to sheet from them on the best proceedures for drilling.                                        Bob

[bvillercr]

Troy, check this out
http://www.eharwood.com/catalog/product.php?productID=131

I talked with Steve the GM there, very racer friendly.  No tinting available.

[thundersalt]

 Just a question, has anyone tried forming the lexan over a stock glass curved window?   I assume using body shop heat lamps and clamps would be the way to go.  Do you cut it with a jig saw and a fine blade?  Tap plastics probably could give us the answers, or maybee if you made a paper template, it might be worthwhile to pay them to cut it.  They did my tail light lenses, and the cuts were really smooth, but I never thought to ask them what they used.
 They also sell drill bits for plastic, and I got a how-to sheet from them on the best proceedures for drilling.                                        Bob

That's how we have done it. Used a small reciprocating air saw with a fine blade to cut. You can smooth sand the edges with 180-240 grit. We used regular drill bits just make sure they are sharp and go slow.

[Stan Back]

"It does not say anything about the class record."

Come on, Bob, you know that won't fly.

Stan

[836dstr]

There are special blades for cutting plastics and fiberglass. They have tungstun abrasive on the leading edge and cut smoothly. No teeth to grab material.

Tom

[Nortonist 592]

Lexan won't cut with a regular blade.  It tends to crack and break and get expensive.  If you are going to do it yourself get the right blade.

[krusty]

Lexan cuts just fine with a regular jigsaw blade. Polycarbonate that is not Lexan will split and crack.     vic

[hitz]

Bob, you'll need 270 degrees F. to form Lexan.

Mike, You can tell the belts are polyester if they are so stiff you can hardly tighten them. Be sure the "anti dive" belt is 2" so it might not chaff stuff.

I've bought my helmet but I got a SA2005. At my age I probably won't need one for more than 5 years more. I haven't looked seriously at the head restraints yet but I heard you have to go to a 2" shoulder harness. Sure hate to throw away my custom Autopower 3" shoulder harness for something smaller so I can spend a bunch of money on a restraint that is going to increase my cockpit exit time!

Harvey

[Elmo Rodge]

Lexan cuts just fine with a regular jigsaw blade. Polycarbonate that is not Lexan will split and crack.     vic

Lexan is just a brand name for polycarbonate. They are the same. Wayno

[jimmy six]

Dyno....Nylon belts are SFI 16.1 and Polyester belts are SFI 16.5..................JD

[38flattie]

Troy, check this out
http://www.eharwood.com/catalog/product.php?productID=131

I talked with Steve the GM there, very racer friendly.  No tinting available.

Just FYI, I ordered mine here:

http://www.ridoutplastics.com/

I ordered a dark bronze tint, and it wa $312.35 for the entire car. Of course, all I have is flat glass, no curves.

[Ron Gibson]

No dog in this fight, I don't got no stinkin windows.  LOL 
That been said. It looks to me there are lots of safety film choices, from numerous suppliers, available.
All the SCTA has to do is specify a thickness, say 6 mil or 8 mil for strength. Then require a hole, 1/8" or so punched with a paper punch or similar, somewhere on all film applications so inspectors can check if applied and thickness.

Ron

[dw230]

Thanks Ron,

Two good ideas that I can take to the board. 

DW