BSA B50 -500 APG Build

Started by Koncretekid, February 26, 2011, 04:19:48 AM

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ChrisLenahan

bak,  I am also building a Rotax powered 125cc bike with plans to be at BUB 2012.  I'm likely to be running unfaired at first but have decided that the radiator will be enclosed in a water tank rather then exposed to the air causing drag.   All I need to do is figure out the size of the radiator and water tank needed.  When I eventually put a fairing on it the only opening I'll need will be air for the side mounted carb. 

nrhs sales

Make sure you read the rules very carefully about what body parts must be visible from the side as you are building the fairing.

Koncretekid

A black line on the salt would be much appreciated.  I had enough trouble just keeping between the flags!  But, I don't know how Bob knew when he reached the end of the timing lights.  As far as cooling, I'm thinking a small hole in the high pressure zone behind the front wheel (the BSA is air cooled, of course).  Also, I wanted to run a front fender, and it appears I'll have to cut part of the fairing away to fit the fender. I can probably rebuild part of what I've cut away after I fit the fender.
We get too soon oldt, and too late schmart!
Life's uncertain - eat dessert first!

Grandpa Jones

Hi Tom,

How wide is the Can Am fairing? How did it compare to the Harley XRTT
and the other LSR fairings available?

Thanks, Dave

wobblywalrus

That laydown frame where you look out through the steering stem should work very well when you get the streamlining figured out.  It will be a frustrating project at first with big rewards later.  Keep at it.

Koncretekid

Quote from: Grandpa Jones on November 07, 2011, 12:32:05 PM
Hi Tom,

How wide is the Can Am fairing? How did it compare to the Harley XRTT
and the other LSR fairings available?

Thanks, Dave
Dave,
I will try to post dimensions of the CanAm fairing that Dutch at Airtech sent me.  I do not have dimensions for the other fairings, but all of them seemed too tall for my short bike. The numbers next to the red dots are the widths taken at various places.

Bo and others,
I have found a boat builder, Doug Murphy, who also specializes in motorcycle custom fairings whose shop is less than 1/2 hour from my home.  He is quite excited about the project and we are discussing terms.  His work is excellent.

Bak and Chris,
You guys are going for records in a class where the bar is already very high (125mph plus, with 125cc!)  Good luck and I'm anxious to see the results.  Please start a build diary.
Tom
We get too soon oldt, and too late schmart!
Life's uncertain - eat dessert first!

Grandpa Jones

Thanks Tom! No wonder that fairing is so slippery, only
14 inches wide!

Dave

ChrisLenahan

Koncrete,  My goal is a little lower then 125mph,  the goal is to run at BUB in 125 M/AG, the record is 115.  Still a lot for an unfaired 125 and I have no expectations the first time out other then to learn as much as I can.  Chris

wobblywalrus

Tom, will you be using metal or fiberglass?

bak189

Should be able to run 115mph using Rotax power......I mounted our 125 in Honda 250c.c. roadrace frame.....and with my fat 213lbs on it ran 114mph..............................................................................
Question authority.....always

Koncretekid

Quote from: wobblywalrus on November 08, 2011, 09:10:20 PM
Tom, will you be using metal or fiberglass?
Bo,
If I had your metalworking skills, I'd go with sheet metal.  But because the CanAm fairing is fiberglass and I have found a competent fiberglass man,  it will be fiberglass.

Before the dropped off the bike at Doug Murphy's Boat shop, I tagged on a couple of pieces to outline the extremities.  Its a little crude, but will get the project rolling.  I also lowered the handlebars a bit which allows me to almost turn them.  The fairing will get bumped out at the handlebar locations.  Doug's shop is a twenty minute drive for me, but since he'll be working on other projects at the same time, I won't get to participate as much as I would like to.  I'll keep you posted.
Tom
We get too soon oldt, and too late schmart!
Life's uncertain - eat dessert first!

wobblywalrus

Tom, the advice given to me was "make sure the streamlining is big enough to keep you out of the wind."  My observations of fellow racers, their speeds, and their streamlining makes me think this is true.  Looking at the last picture, the one from the rear, is this fairing wide enough to keep your arms and shoulders out of the breeze?

Koncretekid

Bo,
What are you doing on the internet at 2:45 AM? Late night or do you have to get out to milk the cows?

The best photo of the Can Am fairing is on my posting #178, front view.  I actually have my arms within the fairing, but I can't move.  The fairing is actually concave on both sides, where I think it should be convex.  That is the first modification we are going to make which should allow me rotate my shoulders enough to steer.  I don't want to make hand and forearm cut-outs the way CanAm did it - - the rules must have required them at that time.

As to convergence of the sides, from the widest points (like my footpegs), I think I read that the maximum convergence should be less than 10 degrees.  Can anybody confirm this?  Also, should the rear edges of the fairing be closed in like Airtechs "Electric Bike" fairing, or open like Bill Warner's 311mph Suzuki?  Should all the edges, such as where the sides attach to the belly pan be hard or soft?  Should the belly pan extend to and surround the rear wheel, of can it be open on the bottom?  Any ideas on these points would be helpful.

Tom
We get too soon oldt, and too late schmart!
Life's uncertain - eat dessert first!

wobblywalrus

Tom, 2:45 would be the time on is the Michigan Upper Peninsula when I posted it.  The 10 degree maximum convergence number is in Bradley's book.  Those questions you are asking are items I am wondering about, too.

Unkl Ian

Is that 10 degrees total, or 10 degrees per side ?

I guess the answer is "a Secret" .