Australian Streamliner Bike Build

[Jon]

Met with Paul from Gazi Suspension today re shocks.
http://www.gazisuspension.com/products.html

They are Brisbane based and make good quality Twinshocks, they are just starting to get into monoshocks.

After talking weights, suspension travel and linkage ratios he is going to see if they can make something to suit.

Cheers
jon

[Jon]

Hi

Does anyone know of a Push button FIA approved Isolation switch?

The FIA approved switches are sprk free and have a second set of contacts to cut the ignition.

Im looking for a cross between this Push Botton Isolator Switch and this FIA Isolator Switch.

I want a push button so that i can mount it flush with the body at the back of my canopy so anyone can just hit it and cut everything, I'm planning on having a similar flush mount push button that works the fire system.

I can find push button twin contact isolation switches but figure if I'm buying one I should try and find a FIA one if they exist, if it's spark free it shoudl also be fairly salt resistant in the contacts.

thanks
jon

[generatorshovel]

Jon,,,have you thought of feeding the voltage thru a push button switch which is normally closed, to an electro magnetic switch, then to a relay , then to all your 'lektrics ? once the button is pressed,,it'll kill the power to the relay switch,,which would drop out, and stay out.
Well done on your build by the way mate, lightning fast construction,

[High Gear]

Jon,

See if you can find 3M brand Fire Barrier Moldable Putty. It is great for filling small firewall voids.

Gary

[Jon]

Thanks guys

GenyShovel; your supercharged 250 sounds and looks awesome, hope to catch you at the lake in May, I think it's going to be a bit fresh.
I started off with something similar to what you mentioned when I heard that the isolator switch needs to cut the motor as well as isolate the battery. Trying to make my build to KISS rules, if I don't have something it can't break and I don't need to buy a spare one.
I like the MOSFET switches that Tony showed in Wayno's electrical thread but they're a bit spendy for an isolate switch, if I can't find a push button FIA isolator I think I will go with a key one.

How is the Hill these days? I did School of the Air on a property between Tandou and the river when I was young, then 1 year at North School before we moved to SA. I came back and mechaniced (is that a word) at Tandou for a couple years (about 18 years ago I think going from the age of my kids).


Gary; thanks for that, I will track some down. Have you used any strip foam type fireproof material?
I want something that I can put a line around the inside of my body to seal the gap between it and the main hoop. They must make something for sealing fireproof doors in buildings.

Cheers
jon

[Tman]

Thanks guys



Gary; thanks for that, I will track some down. Have you used any strip foam type fireproof material?
I want simething that I can put a line around the inside of my body to seal the gap between it and the main hoop. They must make somethingbfor sealing fireproof doors in buildings.

Cheers
jon

Jon, here is a tip Glen told me about. Make sure the body/firewall are sealed AND ATTACHED solidly together. If the skin comes loose fire can get past the sealer into the cockpit or fluids can seep forward upon decelleration. I take everything Glen says seriously.

[Jon]

Thanks guys



Gary; thanks for that, I will track some down. Have you used any strip foam type fireproof material?
I want simething that I can put a line around the inside of my body to seal the gap between it and the main hoop. They must make something for sealing fireproof doors in buildings.

Cheers
jon

Jon, here is a tip Glen told me about. Make sure the body/firewall are sealed AND ATTACHED solidly together. If the skin comes loose fire can get past the sealer into the cockpit or fluids can seep forward upon decelleration. I take everything Glen says seriously.

Thanks Tman, I take Glen's advice seriously too, he has a good point about cutting the cage which leaves me relying on either some sort of seal between the main hoop and the body only or a bolt on section of roll cage skin in the corner that can be unbolted if they need to cut the cage

Mine won't be too bad in the bottom 1/2 as the rider's compartment tub will be fully sealed up to the midrail height from the friewall forward past my feet, i still want to seal between it and the body though so that stuff can't come forward under the rider's compartment under deceleration .


Thanks
jon

[Tman]

He meant keeping the panels on in the case of an engine explosion. Sudden poof, body panels separate from the firewall seal if they are not attached and fire/fluids can get through between gap in firewall and body panels.

[55chevr]

Trent- an event such as you just described could ruin your whole day.

[Tman]

Trent- an event such as you just described could ruin your whole day.

That is the most understated thing posted today!~

[Jon]

Trent- an event such as you just described could ruin your whole day.

That is the most understated thing posted today!~

Youd probably abort that run anyway 

It's that sort of hiccup that was part of my thinking of having the whole rollcage and drivers compartment tinned in.
That and my bodywork itself will offer no protection in if turns to custrard.

Then Glen pointed out that i was making it difficult to cut the top off if needed......


Cheers
jon

[Kansas Bad Man]

Hi Jon,

You mentioned in one of your posts that you are going to actuate the fire bottles externally with a push button switch.  I can't remember, but I'm pretty sure that the rules used to state that any electrical actuated solenoid, like say a pin on a fire bottle, had to have a back up mechanical way to pull the pin.  I think it was the same with parachutes.  The idea being that if there was a fire going on, the mechanical pull cable would last long enough to operate the fire bottles, where an electrical system would pretty much melt and become inoperable before the safety people could get to you. 

One other thing about the fire system.  A ten pound bottle, if fired in the cockpit, wouldn't allow the pilot to breathe.  Don Vesco wouldn't ride my steamliner without a shut off valve that he could reach easily to shut off a discharged fire extenguishing bottle to the cockpit.  He had a problem one time when he did have to fire the fire bottle.  No problem with the fire, but he did have a problem with holding his breath until he could get the thing shut down, and the canopy lid up. 

                                      Best,
                                       Max

[Gu11ett]

Jon,
Can you use the fire seal from a safe to seal your firewall? Liberty uses stuff that expands 3X when subjected to fire.
Dale

[Jon]

Thanks guys

Max; fire system is fully manual, the outside release will be a mechanical pushbutton the works directly on the bottle. Pretty easy to do with the bottles vertical.
Parachutes will be manual release, spring launch pilots, the tilt switch requirement is the only reason I'm putting a solenoid on the main.
The filling cabin with smoke and/or foam is why I was looking for a forced air helmet, 2x10lb bottles of foam with 6 nozzles, 2 of them in the rider's compartment will have 6.66lb in the rider's compartment (20/(6/2)).
A mortorycle streamliner needing the same amount of fire agent in the rider's compartment as a full cabin car seems a little excessive but I guess it's a case of don't have to like the rules just need to comply with them.

Dale; thanks for that will check it out.

Cheers
jon

[Jon]

Less than optimal day today.

The smoke came out of a few components on the main board of my TIG.

Found out that Hayabusa output sprocket is about 10mm more from centerline than I thought.
20mm wider swingarm wasn't going to fit in the body so shortened swingarm by 25mm and changed adjuster system.

Worked out that my swingarm angle was now a bit too steep.
Dropped the crosstube that holds the back motor mounts and swingarm mounts by about 16mm (5/8").

End of the day, new TIG and swingarm tacked up by not mounted;


Cheers
jon