G/F class lakester in Wichita, Kansas

[tauruck]

Panic attacks???. Don't go there.
Happy you found a solution in the fresh air system.
We're all human and panic attacks are a SOB from hell!!!.
Anyone that's never experienced them might think sufferers
are weak etc. Not the case. I feel for you John.

My screen will be pretty small but I need the 3D shape.
On that I won't compromise. Gotta have a go at this blow molding thing.
The local guy that makes canopies for planes and gliders is a jerk.
I called him to ask if he could manufacture one for me and he treated me like
I owed him money or something!!!. Not cool so I'm even more determined now.

[ggl205]

Yeah, panic is no fun. Hard to explain the feeling but if allowed to completely take over, you become completely irrational. Fortunately, it is controllable and managed with a fresh air system and sufficient visibility.

BTW, Aircraft Windshields got back to me today on a quote. They are actually quite reasonable but you need to provide tooling (a proper buck).

John

[Peter Jack]

John, I may have missed it but what are you using for an oven and how big is it?

Pete

[ggl205]

Peter, the oven is owned by a friend. We are going to heat form another windscreen late this week and I will post pictures of the oven and tools used to do the job.

John

[ggl205]

Finally have all but a few fasteners left to anchor the body. Lower perimeter all around and rear support for the very rear are all that is left. Next up is making/installing NACA ducts and aero bubbles for header and fuel rail. Very close to final teardown and finish welding 360 degrees of the chassis. Once accomplished, sand blast, prep with POR-15 and a top coat, then final assembly. I am getting excited just thinking about completion of this car.

John

[ggl205]

A little more progress today. Installed three NACA ducts, two for engine intakes and one for fresh air system. Bubbles, one on each side, are in two laminations of fiberglass now but when cured, filling and sanding will be done in preparation for a third glass lamination to cover any Bondo used. Additionally, I finished the support structure for rear body section. It also gave me a good place to put a master cutoff switch. Yes, it is a big opening but this is as far as I can go for 2017. However, this opening qualifies as access to the engine compartment so no additional panels are required.

John

[tauruck]

Lots of serious work going on there John!!!!.
The thing that impressed me most is that you used the correct NACA ducts.
Some may not know this but there is a formula for them dimension wise.
Well done on all the progress. I'm impressed by the whole build.
You ROCK!!!!!!!.                                                                                              

[ggl205]

Hi Mke:

Well, as Sony and Cher sang, the beat goes on and finally, it ends. Ten weeks to get it all together. But 3D printing has made some things easier. We almost used it to make the bubbles but figured shaping foam was a faster way around this problem. Not the most uniform but acceptable. Printing NACA ducts was where printing shined. We were able to reproduce exact features for a correct duct. I had three guys over that helped build the body and got it all done in a day.

John

[MAYOMAN]

John, it is great to see the correct application of submerged air inlets (NACA ducts) on your lakester. So many of these NACA-styled features are simply air scoops located at the front of the body. 3D printing is really a terrific solution to fabricating these correctly. Now, git 'er done!

[tauruck]

I have the formula here so I made about 40 templates using it.
It's either right or doesn't work. You've seen the stuff some
companies sell.

[tauruck]

John, I got your email with the video etc. Thanks so much.                                                                                                                                      

[ggl205]

Mike, the sheet of ploy in that video buckled when fully cooled so back in the oven it goes. That is one nice thing about this family of plastics, if you make a mistake, try again without damage to properties. The first windscreen went through three heat forming's before calling it quits. There were a couple of deformations that I didn't think would be a big problem but once bolted to the canopy and left to sit in my very hot garage for a couple of weeks, the poly began to noticeably improve. Go figure.

The last two days have been spent making rear body supports. Just about done with this sort of thing and next week should see me taking everything apart for a final 360 degrees of chassis welding. Stainless stopped by with some beautifully water jetted aluminum panels to make two fire doors for his car and made two for mine as well. I can't say enough about Stainless. One of those real, genuinely nice guys.

John

[tauruck]

This canopy thing intrigues me. I have to give it a try.  What thickness do you suggest I use/try?.

Stainless and all the guys here are good friends.  One big family.
I can't mention names because I might leave someone out but you won't believe the help
I've gotten and I'm on the other side of the planet!!!!.
                                                                                                                                                                                       

[tauruck]

John, I want to make something similar to the screen on Bobby Moore's car
but if I use the Lavarack method of blow molding I'll have to cut an elipse
that's symmetrical and that will give me two examples back to back.

[ggl205]

Mike, if I didn't know better, the Moore windscreen looks like it could be cut directly from a flat sheet.

I used .093" thick poly for the first windscreen but went to .120" for the second one.the speed your car will go, maybe the .120" is better.

John