Milwaukee Midget

[fordboy628]

I think Fordboy's on life support.

Wow - a classic, old school running game on a field of frozen, brown grass in 20 degree weather - and snowflakes to boot!

It could have gone either way - the difference being a forward fumble out of the pocket to a confused Boykin.

I expect I'll have to go talk my friend south of the Cheddar Curtain out of his tree . . . 

MM, et all,

Congrats to GB Packers/Aaron Rodgers for a game well played.   As for Chi/Bears, well, when your defense can't stop anybody, you deserve to lose . . . . .  they missed 5 or 6 opportunities to lock up the NFC North, and couldn't do it.  Oh well . . . . . .   BTW, not in a tree, too cold.  Down in the dungeon computing and sucking radon . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Re: cylinder head airflow

Some interesting 'A' series sample information and for anybody looking for airflow numbers: http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tablehdc.htm

This is a huge database with lots of numbers for all types of cylinder heads, V-8's through the 4 cylinders and motorcycles, something for everybody.  Unsure about accuracy, etc, BUT, it is a starting point with lots of links to various cylinder head manufacturers and specialist head porters.

A UK source for various European cylinder heads and the 'A' series specifically:   http://www.cncheads.co.uk/?cat=103

Rethinking flow testing the heads from Joe.  I'm personally curious about the older heads I did 20+ years ago.   Would be nice to capture the numbers for my database.

Fordboy

[Milwaukee Midget]

Yeah, give him a call.  I'd run 'em down to you.

I'd even spring to see what the C&S head flowed - It'd be nice to know if I have someone local like Mel who might have "the knack".

Do I need to order up a pair of anti reversion valves for testing?

[fordboy628]

Yeah, give him a call.  I'd run 'em down to you.

I'd even spring to see what the C&S head flowed - It'd be nice to know if I have someone local like Mel who might have "the knack".

Do I need to order up a pair of anti reversion valves for testing?

Midget,

In the process of booking flowbench time (pretty much when ever I want to show up there) and coordinating with Joe.   Will have about 9 (Number 9) or more, (!! sheesh) BMC heads to flow test.   And I'm going to have to fabricate some other radius inlet adaptors in 35mm/36mm, etc.

Do you want me to post a copy of the Comprehensive Build Plan on your diary?    Better yet, if you have a scanner, you can do it.   Leaves me more time for the flow bench.   Do you want to attend the flow testing?

I have some of the Rim-flo sizes in my bits.   I also have e-mailed REC about a direct purchase of samples of what I want to test.    If there is something you want to try out, let's coordinate a plan.

"I love it when a plan comes together!"

J.HannibalSmithboy 

[fordboy628]

Midget,

Finally out of the deep freeze.   Picked up the 3 heads from Joe yesterday after the pilgrimage to Select Sound, Beerhaven.   Looking to do flow testing sometime next week.

F/B

[fordboy628]

Midget,

Intake valves     1.475" diameter x 3.525" length
Exhaust valves   1.150" diameter x 3.525" length

If the other valves are only available in the 3.575" length, that could be made to work.

Will do flow work as soon as other valves are available for testing.   Will probably flow the F/Production heads first, since all the bits are at hand.

Fordboy

[Milwaukee Midget]

Will do flow work as soon as other valves are available for testing.   Will probably flow the F/Production heads first, since all the bits are at hand.

Fordboy

WARNING - IMPENDING DATA DUMP!    

[fordboy628]

Will do flow work as soon as other valves are available for testing.   Will probably flow the F/Production heads first, since all the bits are at hand.

Fordboy

WARNING - IMPENDING DATA DUMP!  

Midget,

Since I am information constipated, a partial dump to help relieve the stress.    Listed below is some data of interest to BMC racers.

BMC Valve Weights

Conrad, Longman Head
54.6g   Longman Intake,   not numbered          1.475" D x 3.523" L
50.3g   replaced Intake, REC #118                   1.480" D x 3.577" L
43.7g   Longman Exhaust, not numbered          1.145" D x 3.523" L
Notice that there is a 4.3g difference in weight between the Longman supplied intake valve & the REC intake valve.   It is important to note here that the 4.3g weight difference is NOT the "effective weight" that the engine "sees".    That value is the 4.3g weight difference multiplied by the square of the rocker ratio.   In Midget's case, his "effective" rocker ratio is 1.53/1 (nominal of 1.50/1), so the 4.3g is multiplied * 2.341 for a final value of: 10.07g.   The ~4g weight savings of a titanium retainer can help to offset this effect, by reducing the valve train weight (mass) on the valve side.   Obviously, the best combination would be the lighter valves (or even titanium valves!$$!) with the titanium retainers.    It would all depend on how well your valve springs "control" valve train motion, the thickness of your wallet, and how "cost effective" you want to be . . . . . . .

Un-named Racer, Swiftune Head
54.5g   race intake,   not numbered                  1.475" D x 3.525" L
45.2g   race exhaust, not numbered                  1.213" D x 3.525" L
This gentleman has been advised, by a prominent race shop, to run "very light" (my evaluation) valve springs to reduce "valve train parasite drag" and increase bhp at the flywheel.    The engine can't run 20 minutes without breaking some valve train part . . . . . .          Hmmmmmm . . . . . . . . .      Midget, does this sound vaguely familiar?

Sometimes it's helpful to be able to do the math . . . . . . . . .       But hey!  That's just me.   And I could be wrong . . . .    But I don't think so.    And my Versalog agrees.

Ford/Mathboy

[fordboy628]

WARNING - IMPENDING DATA DUMP!    

Well, not so much a data dump as a brain dump . . . . . . . . .

Midget,

During a conversation today with a southern California former racer, who wishes to remain anonymous, he strongly suggested you find a way to pre-heat your gearbox & differential (up to operating temp) just prior to departing the starting line.    I do not know start line etiquette at B'ville, BUT:

1/   Seems like a good idea to me, since you have eaten all the low hanging fruit,
      a/   Possibility 1:  Small wheeled generator with 110v heaters/blankets/whatever (or generator on a cart/wagon/etc)
      b/   Possibility 2:  LARGE 12v/24v battery in trunk (wherever) with heating elements installed in differential & transmission
      c/   Possibility 3:  And/or use of lubricants of very low viscosity at ambient temperatures encountered at start line
      d/                       ?
      e/                       etc, etc,

Might be worth a look through the Grainger/McMaster Carr catalogs or elsewhere.    Does anybody have a line on used Apollo cabin heaters?

Mr. Electrician, this seems right up your alley.   You could even use "chicken head" switches . . . . . . . with relays 'natcherly.

Teslafanboy

[Rex Schimmer]

Fordboy is absolutely right about tranny and diff fluids. I think Sparky runs 30 wt in the diff of his lakester. Many of the Ford BW T5 trannys specify ATF and I would not have a second thought about running it in your Midgets tranny. And I think I would also go with a some heating pads on the tranny and diff also and get them up to around 150 F before running.  Another one of my preferences is good hydraulic oil, like the Mobil DTE series, great stuff, good viscosity vs. temp curve and an excellent additive package for low friction and long life and the viscosity is quite low. Ran Mobile DTE25 in the tranny of my dirt bikes for years and never had a problem, actually improved the shifting.

Rex

[Seldom Seen Slim]

I've got an interesting heater that might be what you want, Chris - if you want to try the heater route.  A few years ago I didn't have a garage - and lived on the southern shore of Lake Superior.  It was COLD!  I got a battery heater for the Jimmy I had at the time.  It plugs into 110VAC and is a flexible mat/wrap about 6-8" tall by something like 20" long, and the surface material is impervious to battery fluid so it should be able to withstand oil and grease and gas.  Wrap it around the battery -- tie-wrap it to the tranny - glue it on the differential - and plug it in.  Gets to temp, up around 100F, pretty quickly, and should be able to preheat things in less than a half hour -- maybe faster.  I'd suggest going to a Fleet Farm-like store to find one, or maybe search online.

[Milwaukee Midget]

Back in the 1980s, when I lived in North Prairie, wore a mullet and drove my first MGB through rain, sleet, wind and one of the coldest winters on record, I picked up a little magnetic heater that stuck to the oil pan.  You'd plug it in, and the grease would turn to oil.  Magical, although I doubt it ever got me close to operating temperature.

Possibly installing a 120 V, 1500 watt water heater element in the pan?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Camco-02143-Water-Heater-Screw-in-Element-1500W-120V-/130970495455?pt=Motors_RV_Trailer_Camper_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e7e7329df&vxp=mtr

I've also seen heated dip sticks, and seeing as the transmission only holds about a quart of oil, that might be made to work.

I'll could slide a hibachi under the pumpkin . . .

Actually, 3 ELECTRIC hibachi starters -

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Char-Broil-Electric-Charcoal-Starter-4810-/251415820895?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a898cfa5f

Fab up trays welded to the pan, bolted to the transmission and pumpkin, insert and plug into the generator.

Key would be getting it all warmed up as quickly as possible, and be able to do so in line.

My co-worker, Paul, suggest just doing an oil change every run, and keep the changed out oil in a turkey fryer.

I invited him to come along, and that he could be our fry cook.

He's disinclined to do so . . .

[tauruck]

I was at the classic car club and walked by the fridge.

You immediately came to mind so I snapped a shot of the fare on hand.

The old sages said you'd be most welcome to visit, talk classic English (cars) and share the brews.

Next holiday?
We don't really have wild animals walking down the streets, well not during working hours.

[4-barrel Mike]

Some externals (might as well buy a brand name  ):

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-23996/overview/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-23995/overview/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-23997/overview/

Internals would work too, but these would be faster I think.

Mike

[Milwaukee Midget]

Thanks, Mike.  The question then becomes how hot will they get, and how fast will they heat up?

I see this eventually turning into another argument if favor of a dry sump system.

I was at the classic car club and walked by the fridge.

You immediately came to mind so I snapped a shot of the fare on hand.

Now that's one sump I'd be happy to scavenge, and have no interest in pre heating! 

Hmmmm . . .

Maybe if I installed a Lucas refrigeration unit and plumbed it into the oil line - that would likely warm up the oil . . . 

[manta22]

Chris;

Never use the type of heating element that you showed in your first post:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Camco-02143-Water-Heater-Screw-in-Element-1500W-120V-/130970495455?pt=Motors_RV_Trailer_Camper_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e7e7329df&vxp=mtr

Those things have far too high a "watt density" and will fry any oil that is in its immediate vicinity. The silicone or Kapton film type that you linked to from Moroso are the types to use; they spread the heat over a large area so the oil never gets burned. Watlow Electric & Minco are the manufacturer of most of these types of heaters.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ