Milwaukee Midget

[Stainless1]

ATF?  I would think synthetic motor oil would provide better lube with minimum drag... 0W20 or 0W30.

[Milwaukee Midget]

ATF?  I would think synthetic motor oil would provide better lube with minimum drag... 0W20 or 0W30.

I'll take a recommendation.  Haven't personally been down this road before, but ATF has been mentioned as an alternative.

[wisdonm]

Then there's always synthetic ATF. I've done both. Are you looking for ceramic bearings?

[Milwaukee Midget]

Then there's always synthetic ATF. I've done both. Are you looking for ceramic bearings?

Hmmmm . . . I guess I might be. 

Don, do you have a source?

[wisdonm]

Not off hand. I'd check with Dick and Joe.

[Jon]

Ram air?

[charlie101]

Anything accessory on the engine is robbing more power than those bearings, I don't remember all you've done to the engine but I'd go for electric everything, even the oil pump and pump the air out of the crankcase. Utilize stored hp in batterys instead and with separate circuits you don't need to be restricted with 12 volt motors. Added battery weight is just a bonus.

[wisdonm]

I was referring to wheel bearings. Don't get me started on electric pumps. I recommended them two years ago.

[saltwheels262]

Then there's always synthetic ATF. I've done both. Are you looking for ceramic bearings?

Hmmmm . . . I guess I might be. 

Don, do you have a source?

try worldwide bearings.

[manta22]

FYI: I stumbled across this Midget website: http://www.mambamotorsport.co.uk/racing/richmidget.html

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

[fordboy628]

Midget,

Went to the site from your email:   http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/runnertorquecalc.html

One of the problems is that the formulas are for one port per cylinder, such as Harley/Chevy/tunnel ram Pro Stock etc.  Siamesed inlet ports need a "factor" to properly "estimate" where peak torque will end up.   Since you can't use the full area of the siamesed portion of the port (because of "charge robbing") and half the area is too low of a "factor", I'll need to calculate a "factor" based on your dyno results.

However, the idea of choosing components that either narrow or spread the torque and horsepower peaks is not new and is one of my best "tricks" for "flattening" or "humping" the power band.   It is also why your power band has a slight (and classic) double hump of an engine that is tuned to spread the peaks apart.    It also flattens the power curve.     The engine plan for the 2014 assault on the I/GT record should be to narrow the power band as much as you can stand with a corresponding bump up in the peak bhp.   To say . . . . . 100/103 peak bhp, which should be achievable with intake/exhaust tuning, cam twiddling and the higher compression ratio the little beastie demands . . . . .

Haven't touched the head yet, but have some anti-reversion valves to try in the flow tests.   You know how it is, working for the red queen . . . . . . . .

one port per cylinder boy

[Rex Schimmer]

Chris,
If you haven't already seen this go to this address at You Tube and they have a great vid of one of your runs! Man that thing makes some rpm!!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VflfZi4822k

Rex

[Stan Back]

For you Studeholics, check the one at about 9:20.

[Milwaukee Midget]

Thanks, Rex.

It's peaky, that tractor motor. 

Annoying sounding, too.

The manager of the bowling ally up the street is usually the first to call and complain . . .

[Milwaukee Midget]

Well, I'm rather pleased with this – you can click on the photo and it becomes a movie –



Seeing as I'm trying to eliminate every Newton of drag and resistance, I succumbed to peer pressure and removed the front brakes – And the front wheel resistance is clearly a whole lot less than it was before.

Podunk, great job on the spindles and hubs!