750cc pushrod bike build

Started by Rchop, February 15, 2009, 04:14:09 PM

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Seldom Seen Slim

We'll want the fuel shutoff to be able to be operated without removing your hands from the bars -- but only if you're running nitromethane.  Either electric or cable (thumb-actuated) is acceptable.  You can get the thumb type from Pingel.

If you're running nitrous or gas -- a manually-operated petcock is good enough, assuming you've got electric fuel pump/solenoids -- so that when you use the thumb or finger-operated kill switch on the bars -- the pump/solenoid goes to "off".
Jon E. Wennerberg
a/k/a Seldom Seen Slim
Skandia, Michigan
(that's way up north)
2 Club member x2
Owner of landracing.com

Rchop

I don't know how to do nitromethane Jon. I'll just be doing gas, so I have the second part of your statement covered.
Thanks
Each unexpected discovery is first ridiculed, then objected to and finally considered self evident
www.frsengineering.com
#4836 A-PBF 750cc(complete)
#765 A/G 650cc

sheribuchta

rechop      you are in the bonneville salt flat discussions---if your kill lanyard and your ignition kill switch shut off your electric fuel pump you are good to go---any unvalved fuel line (line from tank to pump and any tank crossover line) will need a fire sleeve cover or metal braided or hard line ---the gas class is for event approved gas with a sealed tank only --the fuel class is for anything that you want to run or an unsealed tank                         willie buchta

oz

I could be wrong but I think even metal braided fuel line still needs firesleeve on unvalved runs.seemed strange to me but I have done any?all unvalved runs regardless of rubber or braided.Hope I am right on that coz the stuff aint cheap.
TTFN Oz
Newcastle born and bred a City built on Coal and Steel and a people built of stronger stuff

willieworld

#64
here is the rule---------All non-valved portions of fuel or gas lines (including saddle tank crossover lines) shall have fire-resistant or fireproof connectings lines and fittings.  aero/quip fire sleeve meets this requirement.     

   very clear to me       willie buchta

on our bikes we cover all lines with fire sleeve although we dont have to
willie-dpombatmir-buchta

oz

Quote from: sheribuchta on March 16, 2009, 05:20:31 PM
rechop      you are in the bonneville salt flat discussions---if your kill lanyard and your ignition kill switch shut off your electric fuel pump you are good to go---any unvalved fuel line (line from tank to pump and any tank crossover line) will need a fire sleeve cover or metal braided or hard line ---the gas class is for event approved gas with a sealed tank only --the fuel class is for anything that you want to run or an unsealed tank                         willie buchta


I dont want to appear thick but it looks to me from this statement that stainless braided hose constitutes fire sleeve is this the case?
As I said all my unvalved runs regardless of braided or rubber are also fire sleeved so it dosent really matter to me but I didnt think that braided hose was fire resistant.
Oz
Newcastle born and bred a City built on Coal and Steel and a people built of stronger stuff

willieworld

#66
the rule says that fire resistant line is ok  but any thing else will require a fire sleeve---there is a period before the last sentence -- leave off the last sentence and read it ---   then add the last sentence back on --does it make sense now                            willie buchta

while on the subject of steel braided line --my friend had a problem on a bike he built --the engine was rubber mounted--the engine didnt have a good ground --the line from the tank to the carb was the only ground the engine had ---do yourself a favor and run a ground from the neg. side of the battery to the frame and one to the motor  life will be a lot easier       
oz  i found this and it works good  so far  just make sure your jets all flow the same   willie buchta

                                           http://www.coldfusionn2o.com/calculator.html

willie-dpombatmir-buchta

oz

Not really, English was never my strong point at school and I didnt really enjoy it.I was more into Metalwork,Engineering,Woodwork, and the like. I did get a very good result on my City and Guilds though.
I will take it that Braided is "Fire Resistant" and dosent need Fire sleeve then.
Maybe something is getting lost in translation you say Tomato we say well Tomato aswell but it sounds different

Oz 45 and a bit
Newcastle born and bred a City built on Coal and Steel and a people built of stronger stuff

John Noonan

The question is if steel braided lines are fireproof/resistant..

willieworld

John  a good point---resistant means capable of or exhibiting resistance   so just about anything that wasnt flamable would be fire resistant---not even hard lines are fire proof ---so that leaves us with the rule  ---fire proof of fire resistant lines are ok  --if they arnt fire proof or fire resistant then  fire sleeve will make it through tech---my advice is to fire sleeve everything ---and dont use tiwraps to hold it on use stainless steel clamps   just some thoughts  willie buchta
willie-dpombatmir-buchta

Rchop

#70
Thanks for all the responses guys, but I'm actually pretty familiar with fuel control and line requirements from my last build. The questions I brought up here were about protecting the fuel tank at it's low location. My whole fuel system will be -6AN fittings and stainless braided line.
Each unexpected discovery is first ridiculed, then objected to and finally considered self evident
www.frsengineering.com
#4836 A-PBF 750cc(complete)
#765 A/G 650cc

Rchop

I'm finally moving forward...almost.
I received the crankshaft and engine case back from the machinist. The pinion shaft bearing and races have been replaced and align bored. The crankshaft/flywheels have been balanced, trued and tig welded.
I had a set of high compression pistons made to run NA before the turbo goes on and I started to fit them to the rods only to find out they need more machining to fit the XB9 rods. So, back to the piston manufacturer they go :-P


http://www.frsengineering.com/pp66.jpg
Each unexpected discovery is first ridiculed, then objected to and finally considered self evident
www.frsengineering.com
#4836 A-PBF 750cc(complete)
#765 A/G 650cc

Rchop

Most of the spring planting is done, so I got to spend some time working on the bike today. This new fangled fuel injection stuff is new to me, so I'm learning as I go. I installed my fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator and found out I need to run a return line back to the fuel tank.

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp68.jpg
This means I have to weld another bung in the tank for the return line.

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp69.jpg
I also built the exhaust. The fuel line coming up the front of the bike with the little air filter is the tank vent with a tip-over valve.

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp70.jpg
Each unexpected discovery is first ridiculed, then objected to and finally considered self evident
www.frsengineering.com
#4836 A-PBF 750cc(complete)
#765 A/G 650cc

1212FBGS

what are those jap bike parts doin on that american motorcycle?.......
kent

Stainless1

Quote from: 1212FBGS on April 28, 2009, 10:08:33 PM
what are those jap bike parts doin on that american motorcycle?.......
kent

Hey Kent, check the pedigree of a lot of parts on American Motorcycles...  :| it is a global effort... I think everyone should use the best parts they can find... or the most inexpensive high quality parts... In either case, the croch rocket crowd puts a lot of parts in the used market. 
Lookin good...  :cheers:
Stainless
Red Hat 228.039, 2001, 65ci, Bockscar Lakester #1000 with a little N2O