Spirit of South Dakota Lakester

[Elmo Rodge]

Trent, why do you think you hsve a ways to go?  If you're at 4 mm I'd call it good. Unless of course you're figuring on hanging suspension bit from it.  My tanks have a nominal thickness of 4 mm.  Wayno

[Tman]

Looking good Tman

How much support will it have?

Are you putting the cloth on at different angles between layers?

What weight cloth are you using?
Mine is quite heavy, will try and find the invoice.

Cheers
jon

This is the stuff I am using http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=48   Yes, I am laying them up in alternating directions.


Wayno, it is only that thick in a couple spots. only a 3rd through this layer.

[Elmo Rodge]

If you make that nose thick enough we can film an episode of "Cone Hunt".     Wayno

[Tman]

Just got home and looked. I am actually closer to 2mm thick so I  definately need more. It is a flexi flyer right now.

[Tman]

Still working on the nose, last nights photos.



Also working on the dive brakes/air brakes, think Dauntless or Stuka Dive Bombers. Real RCR goodies bought from Tony's stash. I am sure he has a F1 Car in his attic!@

[maguromic]

Trent, the build is looking good.  Now I see what you wanted those flaps for. Are you going to have an air siren like the Stuka dive bombers?   Might be interesting to see some of the photo guys and gals faces as you deploy your system.  Tony

[55chevr]

I like the that idea

[Tman]

Trent, the build is looking good.  Now I see what you wanted those flaps for. Are you going to have an air siren like the Stuka dive bombers?  Might be interesting to see some of the photo guys and gals faces as you deploy your system.   Tony

The siren is an interesting idea, and Glen thinks rotaries make noise! 

There are two ways to go mounting these things. hinge front or hinge rear. Tom Burkland thinks I should hinge them in front which would deply via air or hyd. and be a more gentle "hit". I like the simplicity of them opening as shown. At around 200 I know they can handle it and I think I have a way to "buffer" the initial hit.

[Peter Jack]

The main thing is to ensure that they deploy perfectly symmetrically. The result of that not happening could be rather exciting! 

Pete

[Jon]

The main thing is to ensure that they deploy perfectly symmetrically. The result of that not happening could be rather exciting! 

Pete

+1, a linkage between them could be a good idea.

I like the look of them.
jon

[Tman]

The main thing is to ensure that they deploy perfectly symmetrically. The result of that not happening could be rather exciting! 

Pete

+1, a linkage between them could be a good idea.

I like the look of them.
jon

Yeah guys, I am working on something. Any ideas are appreciated. No offense to summner and others but I want things as simple as possible. These things are rather small until you stand them up next to a small car then they are huge!

[Jon]

The simplest i recon would be a central rocker arm with a link going to either side from opposite ends.
I'm thinking Watts link type arangement with the central pivot on the frame and the ends on the flaps.

If you wanted to get flash you could get one of the links to run through a holed plate and put an adjustable stopper on it to adjust how far out the flaps can go.


Cheers
jon

[Tman]

Jon, thanks! That gives me a great idea  Watts link with a bellcrank attached to the air cylinder that Stainless and Johnboy gave to me at the salt talks last year!

The other idea I have is to add stiff springs on the lanyards to soften the hit. That comes from my background with mountainbike shocks using spring/elastomer dampers.

[Glen]

Tman, wait until you have the engine and everything else mounted to see what you will need to re-engineer once all of the other mechanical, electrical, hoses etc. You will find your thinking changes when you get to that part of the build. The worm can gets fuller.

[Tman]

Tman, wait until you have the engine and everything else mounted to see what you will need to re-engineer once all of the other mechanical, electrical, hoses etc. You will find your thinking changes when you get to that part of the build. The worm can gets fuller.

That is why I am looking into this now Glen, knowing full well that this area willl get crowded. I also need to work out the location of the doors before I tack the rear upper frame tubes. Kinda like fitting ALL the pieces of the puzzle together at the same time!