Springfield Flyer.

[tauruck]

Just wanted to ask advice on the radiator box?.
We're going to fill it with ice. What happens to the radiator fins?.
They're going to get damaged for sure but I guess if it's a water to water system that won't matter or am I wrong?.
Any input will be welcome. Thanks guys.

[floydjer]

Hmmm...Maybe a semi-fine mesh screen to prevent the cubes from bouncing off the fins?

[tauruck]

Jerry, I've got some punched plate with 1/4" holes?.

[Rex Schimmer]

With 85 liters of water in the "box" (that is 38+ gallons for us dimensionally inept) I would doubt that you would even need ice. You will need a good water pump for the engine and one to circulate the water in the box and you need some sort of temperature control system to insure that the engine is running at the optimum temp.

Rex

[tauruck]

I should have converted the litres to gallons before posting. Sorry!.


The pump I have is a good one. Weiand 8209.
The radiator is smaller than the one that was with the 351C
so I figure with it not being far away from the motor it should be OK.
BTW, do I still need the thermostat?.

Rex, this puts a new wrinkle on the whole thing.
The pump to circulate the water in the tank has me confused. This
is my first rodeo and I obviously need guidance. Will you please elaborate?.
I'm not Rockefeller with seven motors. I've got one shot at this.
Thanks for your advice. I appreciate it.

[Interested Observer]

To eliminate the need for a circulation pump inside the box, if possible at this point, remount the radiator horizontally, or as near horizontally as possible and utilize the thermosiphon effect to circulate the box water.  That is, water heated by the radiator rises, then flows laterally to the box walls and then down around the outside edges of the radiator to below the radiator and thence upward through the radiator again.

If ice is to be used, you will want a large "hatch" through which to load it.  Consider a kayak storage compartment hatch--convenient to operate and water and corrosion proof.

[tauruck]

Hi IO, thanks and I do have a large kayak storage screw in hatch.
I'm thinking of putting a second one on the opposite side of the radiator
because currently we'll only be able to ice one side. The radiator is acting
as a divider at present.
I'll check if I can position the radiator as you described.
I'm a little worried about bleeding the system if I lay it over too far.
Thanks so much for your input.


BTW Rex the capacity is only 22,45 gallons.

[floydjer]

nearly 24 1/2 GALLONS Is a radiator even needed? Or is that, with a thermostat the way to regulate the heat??

[Rex Schimmer]

Boy you are right! I was trusting my memory for the conversion of liters to gallons and used 2.2 l/g rather than 3.78l/g. I'll blame it on excessive age and Jamesons!

If you can lay the radiator over as IO recommended you can then use temperature differential to get some water movement. I would still recommend some sort of pump with internal baffling to make the cooling water circulate through the radiator core. I would highly recommend a thermostat as it will ensure that the engine is at operating temp before you run it. I always recommend the mid 80s BMW 320i thermostat as it is a three port design that circulates the water in the engine cooling jacket through the engine until operating temp is meet and then it modulates the incoming cooling water to maintain that temp. You can get them on Ebay for around $15.

Rex

[Stainless1]

Boy you are right! I was trusting my memory for the conversion of liters to gallons and used 2.2 l/g rather than 3.78l/g. I'll blame it on excessive age and Jamesons!

Rex

Pounds per kilo... liters per gallon.... shots in a fifth.... nobody really pays attention to that stuff anyway   
You just pour a couple of fingers of Jameson  in a glass.... I usually measure with the index and little 

[tauruck]

I don't drink anymore but when I did measurements never counted.

I'll be using a thermostat. The Ford Cleveland is a little different to
the other Fords.

Local parts stores listed one thermostat part no for the Windsors and Cleveland but there's
a difference. The 351C has a concave disc (removable if rusted) inside the
thermostat housing on the block. There's a hole in the disc. The correct thermostat
has a plunger that seals off the bypass when it opens. The others don't.
Hard to tell the difference until you check properly.
Wolfgang is my American parts supplier and he showed me the difference between the thermostats.
I bought 3.
There a quite a few Panteras here and guys were changing to Chev 350s because the Fords ran too
hot. Wrong thermostat was the problem.

I'm not sure what pump I can find to circulate the water in the tank or where it could be mounted.
Space is limited in that area.
Thanks for all the advice.

[SPARKY]

 aa small boat bilge pump would do or a tank mounted efi fuel pump

both can run submerged

[tauruck]

Thanks Sparky, I know where I can both.
Trying to sort out my compressor. The motor blew. :x :x :x
I found the problem and without too much detail even the plastic fan melted.

[fordboy628]

aa small boat bilge pump would do or a tank mounted efi fuel pump

both can run submerged

You can also use Jabsco external pumps successfully.    I have used several 110v ones for dyno preheat water circulation.   "Water Puppy" model I think.

http://www.amazon.com/Jabsco-18660-0121-Flexible-Impeller-380-GPH/dp/B000O8FBDE

OR, in Europe:

https://www.jabscoshop.com/jabsco/

Various voltages available.

Something with a bronze pump body and flexible impeller should work, and last forever.


Fordboy

[tauruck]

12V dc pump for saltwater and fresh water applications . Permanent Magnetic Rotor 1.voltage: DC 6v ~ 12v; 18W 2.head: 1.5m ~ 7m, 3.flow: 246 ~ 800L / H, Inlet dia 16mm, outlet dia 12mm

Multi purpose DC 12v Submersible Pump

Can be used for DIY Auto Top Off,  Create extra movement in your sump, Use as an extremely low powered uplift pump.
Only $20.