UK Lakester build G/GL

Started by Lemming Motors, January 11, 2018, 04:43:42 AM

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Lemming Motors

Thanks Jack
I will look into that - not sure of the numbers yet.
There is nothing interference sensitive going south as the ECU and all its bits will be in the engine bay area if I can find somewhere nice and cool for it.
A Bonneville Lakester please barman.
Certainly sir; a lick of salt, a sip of gas and a twist of Lemming. More Lemming sir?
Just a squeeze.

A Squeeze of Lemming it is sir.

Lemming Motors

Have I understood this correctly?

I am routing the mechanical chute release cable and since the tube is there and I have the end cover (triangular hanky thing) and the sprung pilot jack-in-the-box I thought I might as well mock up the release mechanism.

I assume more compression on the pilot means more oomph on release but this seems to put additional tension on the release rod / mechanism and it becomes more resistant to release - I guess there is a happy medium but broadly speaking do the pics suggest I am on the right track?  cromag
A Bonneville Lakester please barman.
Certainly sir; a lick of salt, a sip of gas and a twist of Lemming. More Lemming sir?
Just a squeeze.

A Squeeze of Lemming it is sir.

Lemming Motors

And yes, I bent, re-bent and generally beat on the steel loop on the end cover so that needs replacing before this gets used in anger as that is a potential failure point - oops.  :cry:
A Bonneville Lakester please barman.
Certainly sir; a lick of salt, a sip of gas and a twist of Lemming. More Lemming sir?
Just a squeeze.

A Squeeze of Lemming it is sir.

kiwi belly tank

That style is always going to load the release cable by wedging the buckle between the pin & loop. Lessening the pack pressure to ease that problem is going to reduce the pilot launch speed & distance & that's never desirable.
If you machine up a little cone that the buckle eye fits over, mount it with a single countersunk Allen bolt from the inside of the chute tube, that will help unload the release cable. The end of your cable is kinda fat, what is the reason for that? A solid stainless cable works well with this setup, I've done a few this way for other people. A little more length would be desirable to prevent any unwanted releases as well.
  Sid.

Lemming Motors

Thanks Sid

The cable is a redundant 32C morse (push pull) that I had 'in stock'. I simply ground the threads down a bit to mock up this assembly. It is not the finished article.

Length noted (a little more is always desirable). Simply a matter of where I taped things on.

I can visualise the cone but I am not sure why it would load up less than the loop as pictured?
A Bonneville Lakester please barman.
Certainly sir; a lick of salt, a sip of gas and a twist of Lemming. More Lemming sir?
Just a squeeze.

A Squeeze of Lemming it is sir.

kiwi belly tank

It's simply a matter of load per contact area & angle. Get the buckle eye on the cone so it's snug then the load contact area is half the diameter & you'll see what I'm talking about. Also round off the sharp edge of the eye hole. Make up a simple test rig on the bench so you can mess with it for the best results without carving on the tube.
  Sid.

Interested Observer

You might consider using an over-center or almost over-center type latch to carry most of the chute retaining strap load, with the release cable only needing to release the latch.

ggl205

John, when it comes time to deploy the chute, you will not be gentle.

John

Lemming Motors

John
My primary is a switched solenoid so I want it to be 'light'. My backup is the ejector seat release handle and that is intended to be only for the 'Houston we have a problem' back up plan, and then it will not be gentle, correct.
John
A Bonneville Lakester please barman.
Certainly sir; a lick of salt, a sip of gas and a twist of Lemming. More Lemming sir?
Just a squeeze.

A Squeeze of Lemming it is sir.

Stan Back

Building in some additional length of the tube is a good thing.  Years ago, when the roadster was new, the chute barely came out of the tube and then wouldn't blossom.  Lots of dead air behind a real Street Roadster. 

Bob Stroud came thru with a longer main line and more spring pressure.  It wouldn't fit in the existing tube, so we had to take it out and lengthen it.  If it still comes out lazily, you can easily fill in the front of the tube.  The way it is now, you wouldn't want to stand behind it.  It takes at least two people to load it.
Past (Only) Member of the San Berdoo Roadsters -- "California's Most-Exclusive Roadster Club"

John Burk

ParaGear site shows "CONE, SMALL CONTAINER LOCKING - 36B6229" in 3 sizes . Chrome plated so the buckle slides off easily . Perimeter holes to rivet to the tube .

kiwi belly tank

Good one John! :-) I made my first one like this 30 years ago & they work the best for this type of release.
  Sid.
http://www.paragear.com/skydiving/10000176/H439/

Lemming Motors

Thank you for the info and direction; will get some cones made and play some more.

Lively pilot ejection noted. I was experimenting with the tube vertical and at one stage he was leaping out and touching the garage roof. I drilled two holes near the exit end 180 degrees to each other and fitted a ca. 1/8? rod to hold him down while the end cover was latched, then withdrew the rod to load the pilot against the end cover; that was a big improvement for loading.
A Bonneville Lakester please barman.
Certainly sir; a lick of salt, a sip of gas and a twist of Lemming. More Lemming sir?
Just a squeeze.

A Squeeze of Lemming it is sir.

Lemming Motors

About to start wiring the dash: I decided to repaint the instrument pod and match the cockpit inners to go all warbirds on it.

A Bonneville Lakester please barman.
Certainly sir; a lick of salt, a sip of gas and a twist of Lemming. More Lemming sir?
Just a squeeze.

A Squeeze of Lemming it is sir.

wobblywalrus

Where did you get that Made in USA gps speedo?