UK Lakester build G/GL

[manta22]

I bought my 'chute and spring launcher from Bob Stroud. Winding up the spring was not very easy where I had mounted it so I made a tool that made that job relatively easy. I'm surprised that there isn't something similar already on the market.

[Stan Back]

Here another hint . . . build the tube a couple of inches longer than you think it needs to be.  When we had to go to a larger pilot along with its longer line, we had to re-engineer the tube. You can also put a roll of duct tape in there until you need to remove it.  Chutes can grow during a meet -- but keeping them clean and dry can resist that.

[Lemming Motors]

Thanks Gents

I think I might have to modify my tether mount and possibly the opening of the tube now its all in hand. Noting all of the above I will also think on the practicalities of loading it / tensioning the pilot etc 'in the field'.

[ronnieroadster]

Thanks Gents

I think I might have to modify my tether mount and possibly the opening of the tube now its all in hand. Noting all of the above I will also think on the practicalities of loading it / tensioning the pilot etc 'in the field'.

John I recall our rookie year at Speed Week we discovered exactly what Stan Back AKA Jim wrote about the chute growing during a meet.
You see after the chute has been dragging along the salt after shut down the damp salt not only makes the chute somewhat brittle to repack it also causes the chute to blow up in size. We made it to impound after that first run where we had a heck of a time packing the darn chute it took four grown men pushing, punching and swearing to get the chute in the bag.  Seeing what was going on one of the SCTA tech guys told me a little secret he said bring the chute back to the hotel wash it in the shower using cold water and let it air dry. Boy that worked great from that point on we made sure to have a cooler with water handy to wash the chute after each run. And for my car I did increase the size of the chute bag for the next event.
Ronnieroadster

[Stainless1]

If the tube is bigger than it needs to be don't worry, the tube gets smaller as the week goes on.

Regular washing helps... don't pack it wet...

Hope we get to see you this year 

[Lemming Motors]

Oh joy, I have to take a cold shower with a parachute..... is that some sort of induction into LSR thing to see if one is worthy? 

[WOODY@DDLLC]

You'll know when your drop the soap! 
Sorry - could not let that one pass!  :-P
Don't pack it weeks ahead either!  :x

[Lemming Motors]

I have actually been working on the car but the way the world is going I cannot see me visiting this year - the UK is still in lockdown as I write this and I am still working long hours so just a few hours on the weekend on the Lakester for now.

In the meantime; with the chute in hand, I have altered to tube to sketch version 3b to allow a channel for all the lines to enter the tube and not foul the pilot. I am tethering externally rear of the tube so the first thing to get loaded will be all the lines, then the chute etc.

[Lemming Motors]

Just for fun I had the model I made digitised and CFD'd (no axles or wheels). I know the screen is to vertical in this model but, if nothing else, it gave me some encouragement to start assembling the body panels that have come out of the molds - I am seriously winging this so it will be a surprise to me if the body works out okay.

I figured one mold about 4 feet long could serve to create most of the body sides and once they are all joined up, start slicing them apart as individually removable panels. Nose and tail will be reverse layup.

I have started to tack them together - in my head, and on paper it didn't look this deep; I have gone for a more comfortable rooky driving position so that adds depth but I am hoping the taper will compensate a little. Its probably going to be 39" to the top with 3" of ground clearance.

I don't think Bockscar or Twister will have too much to fear - getting on the salt will be a huge achievement for me.

[Lemming Motors]

That last pic is misleading; the area forward of the screen will start to taper down and tuck in from the screen towards the nose - the mock-up is still showing the full body width as it is at the shoulders and through the engine bay, accommodating the air box etc. ca. 26"

[Stainless1]

Looking good John.... good streamliners make good lakesters... if they look good without the wheels they will do well when the wheels go on. 
Looking forward to seeing you on the salt 

[Rex Schimmer]

John,
Body is looking great! I know that some where in your posts you mention what type of panel attachment you are using, 1/4 turn, Dzus etc but looking at the pics I can't tell so what are you using?

Like Stainless, I am looking forward to seeing you at the SALT!!!

Rex

[Lemming Motors]

Thanks guys. 

At this stage the mounting brackets are 1/8? strip steel tacked on with 1/4? rivnuts using stainless countersunk head machine screws.

I haven?t countersunk the panels yet.

I have spaced these 1/8? so there is room to reinforce the area and / or the screw to pass through a panel lip so the screw will be holding two panels together.

I am thinking of these all round but may revert to dzeus for the engine area. The body side panels with only three points of attachment so far are quite rigid; the fibreglass was laid up at a little under an 1/8? thick so that, hopefully, they don't need dozens of attachment points to hold their shape.

Did I mention I am winging it wrt the body?

[Stainless1]

John, figure a 250 mph wind is trying to pull the panels off your car.... if air goes in it will want out.  Overlapping seams help but being an airplane guy I always go for more rather than fewer fasteners.  The smaller the contact patch of the fastener the more of them you need. 

[manta22]

Some stiffening ribs on the inside of your large panels will help too.