Getting ready for Bonneville(rebuild)

[Guardrail]

Willy gets 10 style points. A 360 spin and nothing damaged.

Maybe he can try for an 11 in November.

An 11 means no spin and a record.

FREUD

Man, wouldn't that be great?

[jl222]

  We fired her up today. #1 and 2 NOT FIRING?  puled plugs. checked spark and EFI injectors for voltage every thing OK.

   Fired her back up, all holes firing   mostly ready for NOV El Mirage, just set valves hot and some more tire grooving.

                                JL222

[jl222]

LES SCHWAB TIRES are great!! I had them dismount our slick wide tires and mount and balance our grooved tires.

I was making sure they got the groove pattern was mounted right and guy asked me what they were for.

I told him about are car, engine, hp speed and slick tires for Bonneville and grooved for El Mirage. He thought that was pretty cool.

So as I was ready to pay the $44 charge in the office he comes in and says don't charge him we'll take care of it Hey thanks man, got any stickers I'll put them on the car. At first they didn't think they had any
but a gal found some.

  We grooved the tires more today 4 additional straight lines around each tire  which gives a more blocked pattern
   Not a straight block but curved.

   Set hot valve lash next weekend and buy 10 gal of VP C 16 to add to the left over Bville gas.

                  jl222



   

[jl222]

Valves are set, picked up the C16 today. Truck is loaded, just wash race car tomorrow and load her up and leave for EL Mirage early Friday.

                                 JL222

[Freud]

The foto on Facebook guarantees that You arrived.

Someone else posted a good sunset.

Just "blast off" on Saturday.

Have such good results that it will make

me extra sad that I'm not there.

Who's driving?

FREUD

[jl222]

  Troy drove, had to back off twice went 212mph. Data logger indicated 233+ at one point but lost shaft that drives blower

                                        JL222

[Freud]

Every run is a "test session."

At least it is for us.

Breakage is so irritating.

Your crank snout reminds

me of our quick change

pinion shafts. Heat treat

was our problem. Maybe

the same with You.


FREUD

[jl222]

Every run is a "test session."

At least it is for us.

Breakage is so irritating.

Your crank snout reminds

me of our quick change

pinion shafts. Heat treat

was our problem. Maybe

the same with You.


FREUD

  Supposed to be 4340 doesn't say heat treated. Lasted since 1989 and break was all at once, twisted off with no bench
marks which would have indicated happening over time. Break is cone shaped.

 Blower seems fine, engine turns over, shaft coupler has end play.

             JL222

[jl222]

  after further review. I removed the shaft from the drive hub and there is lots of bench marks close together and to center of shaft. A crack starts at rounded end of keyway and goes almost half way around shaft where I can see it goes to center of shaft.
  This must have been going on for a long time, at Bville, 6 or more years ago the key in the keyway was working its way
out. We tack welded the key to the shaft, problem solved for several years. Now I know why keyway was loose, shaft was cracking

  Its good to know what caused the failure.


                        JL222
     

[manta22]

This sounds like a fatigue failure.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

[jl222]

This sounds like a fatigue failure.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

Yeah, but its a funny car drive shaft made to drive rear ends  with top fuel motors. Just driving a blower.

  Need to figure out a drive hub with out a keyway. Trouble is 1 3/16 Greek coupler  splines on end of 1'' shaft which goes through 4  1'' bearings in pillow block mounted on backside of 7/8 plate that blower is mounted on. End of shaft with keyway has to be 1'' to get through bearings and plate to assemble.

Probably make the same shaft and try to polish end of keyway somehow to prevent a stress point. It has lasted several
years.

                       JL222

[manta22]

The sharp corners of the cut are the problem. You need to radius the corners- sides to end and bottom of the cut to both sides and end. A ball-end mill might do the trick.

Of course, splines would be even better.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

[jl222]

 
  We have an aluminum drive hub with keyway and saw cut to center and a bolt to tighten.

  I'm thinking about a steel hub and tack welding in 3 places. It really doesn't have to come off unless bearings go bad.

IF need to disassemble just cut tack welds. Just making sure hub runs true after welding.

   No keyway this way.

            JL222

[jl222]

  New blower drive shaft ( Mark Williams funny car Drive shaft) is here, along with Mark Williams complete vented disk
rear brake kit. Drive hat, rotors, calipers, mounting hardware and all bolts.

  Shaft is about 30 thou larger than old shaft which will need to be machined down to fit through bearings in pillow block.

  Also new steel drive hub for blower pulley needs to be machined.

                                JL222

[WhiskersMagee]

Nice build, you guys just need a little luck on your side.  Keep up the good work.