Spirit of South Dakota Lakester

Started by Tman, December 31, 2010, 01:49:36 PM

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38flattie

Quote from: Tman on March 30, 2013, 08:25:54 AM
Quote from: 38flattie on March 29, 2013, 05:43:28 PM
So it's the 'radiator' part of your intercooler? Could you put the intercooler beside the radiator, and save yourself the extra effort of the pump and spray bar?

Due to space I am packaging them together. I don't think I would even need the spraybar but it will keep the water moving in the tank as the ice melts. Besides, it was a quick $30 and easy to do. Cheap insurance if we need it in my small tank.

:cheers:
With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. However, this is not necessarily a good idea. It is hard to be sure where they are going to land, and it could be dangerous sitting under them as they fly overhead. -- RFC 1925

You can't make a race horse out of a pig. But if you work hard enough at it you can make a mighty fast pig. - Bob Akin

http://www.flatcadracing.org/
http://youtu.be/89rVb497_4c

Tman

I am at the point of welding the front uprights back on. Trying to figure out a good way to align all the parts. Since this car is rigid I won't have a good way to square the front and rear axles up afterwards. I need to be spot on the first time.

Rex Schimmer

Trent,
I'll bet with some time and a good tape measure, plumb bob a fairly flat floor you could get it between 1/16 to 1/8 inch square, which with a long wheel base is probably good. That being said I would never build a car without at least one axle that I can move, up and down, fore and aft and right to left. You need to be able to adjust alignment and also corner weight which you cannot do easily if it is welded solid.

Rex
Rex

Not much matters and the rest doesn't matter at all.

Tman

Yeah Rex, plus the fact that is still welded to the jig with a centerline helps. As I was typing the last reply I envisioned a way to tack some alignment "tubes" to square the front. Basically I am just getting some solid data points out at the front axle ends.

Tman

Quote from: Rex Schimmer on April 15, 2013, 05:14:41 PM
Trent,
I'll bet with some time and a good tape measure, plumb bob a fairly flat floor you could get it between 1/16 to 1/8 inch square, which with a long wheel base is probably good. That being said I would never build a car without at least one axle that I can move, up and down, fore and aft and right to left. You need to be able to adjust alignment and also corner weight which you cannot do easily if it is welded solid.

Rex

It came to me in the shower today! At least for the front axle, I am going to tack the uprights in place and hang the axle. I will dial it in with the short, adjustable control arms I plan to run. These will have your typical heim ends. I will keep this stuff temporary until the rear axle is in place and I can triple check square.

SteveM

The adjustable rod ends sound like they should serve your purpose, Trent.  It sounds like you are "in the zone" - keep pushing forward, man. :cheers:

Steve
1/2 of the Rampage Brothers

Tman


gkabbt

Looking good Trent.....Keep at it!   :cheers:

Gregg

38flattie

With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. However, this is not necessarily a good idea. It is hard to be sure where they are going to land, and it could be dangerous sitting under them as they fly overhead. -- RFC 1925

You can't make a race horse out of a pig. But if you work hard enough at it you can make a mighty fast pig. - Bob Akin

http://www.flatcadracing.org/
http://youtu.be/89rVb497_4c

Captthundarr

Looks nice and stout Trent.

Frank.
Live,Laugh, Love /  Jack Scratch Racing /ECTA   
Amy Hartman-Driver, Frank Hartman-everthing else.
C/GALT 137.65 Ohio Mile check that 144.12 2013, AA/GALT 159.34 Ohio Mile 2014. B/GALT 180.577 RECORD 6/15

Tman

Rex, I got the front end about dead on. Less than a 1/16th and that is a stretch. Everything is just tacked and I will move on until we are ready for final welding.

Frankie7799


Tman

Huge step for me. I FINALLY got the QC torn apart. The axle tubes were a little redneck and STUCK. I found a jig on the HAMB using your engine stand to pull the tubes. Clearances were bad, took two pulls and about 15 minutes of heat per tube. Now, I just have to learn how to build one of these from scratch!?!?!?!



Tight clearances, turned down well casing? Looks like black pipe in person!



Free at last, free at last!



Apparently when you have a snout, some well casing and need to mate them you scab a larger tube on top? Hard to see but the scab was not cut off with a bandsaw, they drilled 3/16" holes all the way around until the piece fell from the stock, on both sides!?!??! Had to be 100 holes per "cut"




Stainless1

That's what happens when you re-purpose old circle track parts, you have to take the "circle track" out of them.  :roll:
:cheers:
Stainless
Red Hat 228.039, 2001, 65ci, Bockscar Lakester #1000 with a little N2O

Roseville Carl

"Keep Em Between the Whites"

and yes Virginia the world is indeed Flat