Springfield Flyer.

[wobblywalrus]

Mike, you need to put pictures of that snow on the wall so you can look at them in the summer.

[tauruck]

Bo, I'm at 6000ft and this cold bites. Our clothing isn't made for this weather.

Some friends are going skiing soon. I guess they will put up with the short runs etc
but it's definitely not Aspen.

I met a Russian woman yesterday who works in a Home Depot type store. She was dressed
like an Eskimo so I asked why. She said Dodge, I've been here 10 years and this cold is different.
All the guys I played hockey with arrived from Canada, Austria etc at the rink wearing shorts and
T shirts their first winter. After that they dressed like us.

[tauruck]

Veron from Arma Gear sent his driver around with my front spindles so I could check them out
and tell him what size nut I wanted and where to drill the holes for the split pins.
The shafts need final machining for the bearings but other than that I'm very happy.

The upright is mild steel (i think) and the spindles are EN8. Do I need a special tig filler rod or will the normal
mild steel variety do?.

[Harold Bettes]

Mike,

I would suggest that it depends on if you are planning on heat treating the spindles. Because of the carbon content of the EN8, I would suggest using TigTectic 660 for joining the material to milder carbon content steel. The TT660 has nickel in it that makes it flow like butter. An alternate would be to tig braze using Silicon-Bronze. 8-)

Take care.

Regards,
HB2

[tauruck]

Thanks Harold. I'll check with the engineer on the heat treatment issue before we do any welding.
I appreciate your input. God Bless. Mike.

[Harold Bettes]

Mike,

https://www.castolin.com/ I think they have a dealer on the outskirts of Johannesburg (to the north) Another Tig rod is TT680 but I will leave those details to the tech folks at Castolin.

Interesting that you are at 6000ft and I live at 6672ft MSL. Bullet drop at these elevations is not so great as down lower Eh? 

Best of luck on your projects.

Regards,
HB2

[tauruck]

Thanks Harold, That's some awesome info there. Thank you so much. God Bless you.
I must admit I'm a little afraid to start the welding. This is a critical part and I have to get it right first time.
I've only been on the firing range at 200 yards of late because we arrive too late for a spot on the 500.
So many guys out there it's scary. At 200 we haven't and shouldn't notice a drop. I can say that a golf
ball or football (rugby) goes way further up here. Seen 55 yard field goals.

[kiwi belly tank]

I always thought you were "higher" than me Mike! Now it's confirmed. 
  Sid.

[tauruck]

  A lot!!!!!
How are you Sid?.                                

[tauruck]

Dumb question about motor rebuilds. On the older motors there was this run in period on mineral oil etc for about 1200 miles.
Then you could change to synthetic lubricants.
What's the deal on race engines?.

[fordboy628]

Dumb question about motor rebuilds. On the older motors there was this run in period on mineral oil etc for about 1200 miles.
Then you could change to synthetic lubricants.
What's the deal on race engines?.

The following is:  JMHO

You still have to "run-in".

For how long, depends on how exactingly the assembly is "blue-printed", how quickly the parts will wear, and how much "run-in" time is required to get the molecules "friendly" enough with each other . . . . . .

On engines I dyno test, 1/2 hour of run-in time at light load (15% to 25% of peak torque) is how I start.   I then "evaluate" based on HOT leak-down % and dynamic blow-by in CFM.  The acceptable amount for that value is based on the engine's displacement.   If the leak-down is not within the value I'm looking for, I determine why, and take whatever steps are required to "FIX IT".    Flat tappet cams REQUIRE a "run-in" procedure at lowered valve spring pressure, which is a whole separate issue.   ALL pushrod valve trains need a run-in period, even roller cams.   Do not ignore the need for this.

There is no point in "SPANKING IT", unless the engine is sealed up.   BHP & TQ will be down.

All of this PRESUMES that the rest of the engine operating parameters, such as oil pressure, temperatures, LEAKS, etc, ARE WITHIN ACCEPTABLE SPECS/LIMITS.

One final note:   Unresolved problems, even minor ones, can resolve themselves with sudden and EXPENSIVE noises . . . . . .

Once things are sealed up on "break-in lube", you can change to a synthetic based product.

Again,   JMHO   Not all engine "professionals" agree on everything, AND, different parts can and do require differing procedures.   Make DAM* sure you know what is required for your assembly.

[Seldom Seen Slim]

The man has such a wonderful command of the language, doesn't he?  I mean:

"...Unresolved problems, even minor ones, can resolve themselves with sudden and EXPENSIVE noises . . ."

Someone less articulate might have said:  "Duh, we were spinning the motor hard and suddenly the frickin' crank fell right out of the mother!"

See?  Means the same, but one is so much nicer sounding than the other.

[floydjer]

To paraphrase  Daryl Waltrip..." We got computers and stuff to monitor temp. an` oil pressure an` all that stuff.....don`t know why, Just gonna spin that b*tch `til she blows "

[jacksoni]

Fastest Honda Jim, member here who bought my streamliner, related story of a friend who was busy wiring an oil pressure gauge into his basically from the factory truck he was racing. Jim goes: "what are you doing?", ; Putting in oil pressure gauge!  "Why? it's a STOCK motor!" 

[Dynoroom]

I still run an engine in on petroleum based oil, then switch to synthetic if you like.